(July 2010)
Vela Luka
N42°57.94 E016°42.90
Anchored in inlet in the north of the town but it’s very tight for space so we moved to U. Plitvine.
U. Plitvine
N42°58.06 E016°42.40
Anchored and tied back in the NE corner. Very good holding. The band of reasonable depths for anchoring isn’t as narrow as it looks on the chart. There’s a pleasant path around the shoreline or up and over the hill to town (20 minute walk), alternatively town is a 15 minute dinghy ride away. The town is not touristy and there are small grocery stores on the front. Fuel from the berth alongside the fuel station on the front. We went into the station to tell them we wanted fuel, they turned on the supply and we served ourselves!
Check out
Go first to the Harbour Master (closed for lunch 12-2pm) up a side street behind the garage and opposite a café. The Police office is by a small park but the Harbour Master called them to his office and everything was dealt with in the same place. They were very laid back here – frustratingly so – and it took ages longer to deal with the formalities than it needed to.
Sunday, 29 August 2010
Tri Luka, Korcula
(July 2010)
N42°55.61 E016°39.87
Anchored and tied back in the western most cove. The holding was really tricky – weedy and rocky patches – and it took us several attempts before we could get a good hold. The cruising guide says the water can be freezing here but it wasn’t when we were there. Quite a busy spot. Restaurant ashore. The small beach right behind us was piled with rubbish bags.
N42°55.61 E016°39.87
Anchored and tied back in the western most cove. The holding was really tricky – weedy and rocky patches – and it took us several attempts before we could get a good hold. The cruising guide says the water can be freezing here but it wasn’t when we were there. Quite a busy spot. Restaurant ashore. The small beach right behind us was piled with rubbish bags.
Pakleni Islands and Hvar
(July 2010)
O. Planikovac (U Zdrilca), Pakleni Islands
N43°09.61 E016°25.01
A very popular and busy spot. We anchored and tied back to the shore and watched all the entertaining summer fun going on around us. Be aware that a tide runs through the gap; it caused trouble for several people attempting to tie back when we were there.
Hvar
It was calm enough for us to go to Hvar by dinghy from the anchorage in the Pakleni Islands (a 20 minute ride). There is also an anchorage at Hvar town but it was jam-packed and didn’t look like fun.
O. Planikovac (U Zdrilca), Pakleni Islands
N43°09.61 E016°25.01
A very popular and busy spot. We anchored and tied back to the shore and watched all the entertaining summer fun going on around us. Be aware that a tide runs through the gap; it caused trouble for several people attempting to tie back when we were there.
Hvar
It was calm enough for us to go to Hvar by dinghy from the anchorage in the Pakleni Islands (a 20 minute ride). There is also an anchorage at Hvar town but it was jam-packed and didn’t look like fun.
Split
(July 2010)
N43°30.35 E016°26.08
Anchored after the marina, between the fuel station and the front (avoid the no anchoring area indicated by a sign – upside down anchor - on the west shore). The holding is good. Although it’s a bouncy spot, because of the ferry traffic, it’s bearable. We landed at the small inner basin to the left of the front. Several supermarkets in the town. We thought Split was an excellent city and that the old town and palace were fabulous.
N43°30.35 E016°26.08
Anchored after the marina, between the fuel station and the front (avoid the no anchoring area indicated by a sign – upside down anchor - on the west shore). The holding is good. Although it’s a bouncy spot, because of the ferry traffic, it’s bearable. We landed at the small inner basin to the left of the front. Several supermarkets in the town. We thought Split was an excellent city and that the old town and palace were fabulous.
Krka River
(July 2010)
U. Beretusa
N43°49.03 E015°53.28
We stopped here for the night before going on to visit Skradin and the falls. Beretusa is uninhabited and smaller than it looks on the chart. The holding is good. Can land near the head of the NW arm and walk to a rough road. I wouldn’t recommend wandering off the track here, as this is where we saw the minefield sign.
U Dumboka
N43°48.68 E015°53.39
Anchored here for the night after visiting the falls. Uninhabited, good holding, quiet.
Skradin
N43°48.84 E015°55.50
It’s reported that anchoring at Skradin is not permitted but lots of yachts were anchored just before the marina and in the small bays opposite the town without any discouragement. The holding is very good. It’s busy with tripper boat traffic so we went back down the river after visiting the falls for a more peaceful anchorage. Skradin has small grocery shops in the village.
The Falls
If you land to the right of the marina the National Park ticket office is along the front further to the right. Tickets for the tripper boat and entry to the park are 95 Kuna per person (about 13.5 Euro). The area of the Skradinski Buk series of waterfalls is popular and it was very busy when we were there, but wandering the raised platform walkways in the shade of the trees is still a treat. Take a swimsuit, as it’s possible to swim at the pool at the bottom of the falls.
U. Beretusa
N43°49.03 E015°53.28
We stopped here for the night before going on to visit Skradin and the falls. Beretusa is uninhabited and smaller than it looks on the chart. The holding is good. Can land near the head of the NW arm and walk to a rough road. I wouldn’t recommend wandering off the track here, as this is where we saw the minefield sign.
U Dumboka
N43°48.68 E015°53.39
Anchored here for the night after visiting the falls. Uninhabited, good holding, quiet.
Skradin
N43°48.84 E015°55.50
It’s reported that anchoring at Skradin is not permitted but lots of yachts were anchored just before the marina and in the small bays opposite the town without any discouragement. The holding is very good. It’s busy with tripper boat traffic so we went back down the river after visiting the falls for a more peaceful anchorage. Skradin has small grocery shops in the village.
The Falls
If you land to the right of the marina the National Park ticket office is along the front further to the right. Tickets for the tripper boat and entry to the park are 95 Kuna per person (about 13.5 Euro). The area of the Skradinski Buk series of waterfalls is popular and it was very busy when we were there, but wandering the raised platform walkways in the shade of the trees is still a treat. Take a swimsuit, as it’s possible to swim at the pool at the bottom of the falls.
Thursday, 19 August 2010
Sailing in Croatia
So would we recommend Croatia to other cruisers? Lets see…
Against. We’ll do the grotty bit first.
Sojourn Tax:
It was bad enough having to pay for an expensive permit to cruise in Croatia but when we arrived back from Venice, and checked in again at Rovinj, we were presented with another bill. This sojourn tax is chargeable because, would you believe, we’re considered to be a type of temporary resident, as we have beds onboard. The amount you pay depends on the length of your boat and how long you intend to stay in Croatia. As you might imagine, Derek wanted to tell them to stuff it and to cross back over to Italy. The best I could do was to convince him that we should pay the tax for 30 days in Croatia rather than the 60 days that we had previously planned. The worst bit about the tax was that we were then on a time limit, which was a bore, but also that, when we checked out of Croatia, nobody mentioned it again or checked that we’d paid it or queried whether we’d overstayed. We were left feeling that we’d been ripped off. (We subsequently wrote to the Ministry of Sea to ask them about this tax. I’ve copied their reply at the end of this entry).
Charging for anchoring:
Between designated anchorages where a fee is charged, areas with mooring buoys where a fee is charged even if you’re anchored, and harbours that collect dues from anchored yachts it’s tricky to avoid more expense. Tricky, but not impossible. In the two months that we were there we anchored all the time, never went into a marina and only paid to anchor on one night (at Pula Harbour). We also paid in the National Park on Mljet but that was a one off fee for entrance to the park area, it included a trip to the lakes and you could stay as many nights as you liked (see route blog entry for Luka Polace, Mljet). There are some free anchorages off of towns but quite often we were in places a bit removed from habitation. If your wallet and your principals allowed you to part with your money for anchoring then none of this would be a problem. Personally, I felt a bit frustrated at missing some places in order to avoid the charges but that was our choice.
For
The sailing:
Perhaps we were lucky to have a tail wind on the way up and on the way back down again but the sailing really made up for a lot. We used our cruising chute like we never have before. Derek was in his element, with the added benefit of having Dick on call and gaining from his experience. Of course there’s no way that Sandpiper could ever compete with Alchemy but it still spurs you on when you have someone to catch up with. The numerous islands sheltered us from the sea state and always provided an overnight anchorage. Winds were light and we mostly made quite short distances, but they add up and it was heavenly to glide along peacefully. Plus it was free travel.
The sightseeing:
We liked: Dubrovnik; Pula, Rovinj and inland in Istria; the Krka river and falls; and, our favourite, Split. Plus, there’s no denying, it’s a darned handy route to Venice.
The islands:
Amongst others we liked: Mljet, Murter and the Pakleni Islands (handy for Hvar) but see our route blog entries for more.
Cost of living:
Diesel is cheaper than in Greece and Italy. We paid around €1.08 a litre. Food shopping seemed on a par or perhaps slightly cheaper than Greece and Turkey.
The verdict
All things considered: Yes, we would recommend Croatia! We’re glad we went and could have stayed longer. If it wasn’t for the money side of things it would be an excellent place for cruisers, but who cares about cruisers when there are so many charterers with money to spend. Needless to say ensigns were virtually non-existent. Oh, and be prepared to see lots of bare bums…and more!
P.S. Now that we’re back in Italy we’re missing the Croatian anchorages and with hindsight (oh, wonderful hindsight) I wish I’d twisted Derek’s arm to pay to stay longer in Croatia.
Dear Mr. Gray,
In addition to your e-mail about sojourn tax we are informing you as follows.
In accordance with Ordinance of sojourn tax for 2010 (Official gazette 139/09) which had entered into force at 28th November 2009 and Article 3a of the Amendment of the Ordinance of sojourn tax for 2010 (Official gazette 38/10), which had entered into force at 8th of April 2010, the owner of the vessel or any of the passengers which are staying over night on the vessel are due to pay flat fee – sojourn tax depending on the length of the vessel and duration of the visit. Below you can find a table of the flat fee –sojourn tax amounts.
For any additional information and/or complaints you can visit web page of the Ministry of tourism ( http://www.mint.hr ) or Croatian National Tourist Board (http://croatia.hr/en-GB/Homepage).
Sincerely yours,
Mr. Stjepan Vuk,
Head of Sector,
Safety of navigation, maritime and inland waters protection Directorate
Ministry of Sea, Transport and Infrastructure
Table of the flat fee - sojourn tax amounts
Length of the vessel Period Amount in national currency (Kuna)
5- 9 meters till 8 days 150,00
till 15 days 300,00
till 30 days 400,00
till 90 days 600,00
till 1 year 1.000,00
9- 12 meters till 8 days 200,00
till 15 days 350,00
till 30 days 500,00
till 90 days 650,00
till 1 year 1.100,00
12- 15 meters till 8 days 300,00
till 15 days 400,00
till 30 days 600,00
till 90 days 750,00
till 1 year 1.300,00
15- 20 meters till 8 days 400,00
till 15 days 500,00
till 30 days 700,00
till 90 days 850,00
till 1 year 1.500,00
Over 20 meters till 8 days 600,00
till 15 days 800,00
till 30 days 1.000,00
till 90 days 1.300,00
till 1 year 1.700,00
Against. We’ll do the grotty bit first.
Sojourn Tax:
It was bad enough having to pay for an expensive permit to cruise in Croatia but when we arrived back from Venice, and checked in again at Rovinj, we were presented with another bill. This sojourn tax is chargeable because, would you believe, we’re considered to be a type of temporary resident, as we have beds onboard. The amount you pay depends on the length of your boat and how long you intend to stay in Croatia. As you might imagine, Derek wanted to tell them to stuff it and to cross back over to Italy. The best I could do was to convince him that we should pay the tax for 30 days in Croatia rather than the 60 days that we had previously planned. The worst bit about the tax was that we were then on a time limit, which was a bore, but also that, when we checked out of Croatia, nobody mentioned it again or checked that we’d paid it or queried whether we’d overstayed. We were left feeling that we’d been ripped off. (We subsequently wrote to the Ministry of Sea to ask them about this tax. I’ve copied their reply at the end of this entry).
Charging for anchoring:
Between designated anchorages where a fee is charged, areas with mooring buoys where a fee is charged even if you’re anchored, and harbours that collect dues from anchored yachts it’s tricky to avoid more expense. Tricky, but not impossible. In the two months that we were there we anchored all the time, never went into a marina and only paid to anchor on one night (at Pula Harbour). We also paid in the National Park on Mljet but that was a one off fee for entrance to the park area, it included a trip to the lakes and you could stay as many nights as you liked (see route blog entry for Luka Polace, Mljet). There are some free anchorages off of towns but quite often we were in places a bit removed from habitation. If your wallet and your principals allowed you to part with your money for anchoring then none of this would be a problem. Personally, I felt a bit frustrated at missing some places in order to avoid the charges but that was our choice.
For
The sailing:
Perhaps we were lucky to have a tail wind on the way up and on the way back down again but the sailing really made up for a lot. We used our cruising chute like we never have before. Derek was in his element, with the added benefit of having Dick on call and gaining from his experience. Of course there’s no way that Sandpiper could ever compete with Alchemy but it still spurs you on when you have someone to catch up with. The numerous islands sheltered us from the sea state and always provided an overnight anchorage. Winds were light and we mostly made quite short distances, but they add up and it was heavenly to glide along peacefully. Plus it was free travel.
The sightseeing:
We liked: Dubrovnik; Pula, Rovinj and inland in Istria; the Krka river and falls; and, our favourite, Split. Plus, there’s no denying, it’s a darned handy route to Venice.
The islands:
Amongst others we liked: Mljet, Murter and the Pakleni Islands (handy for Hvar) but see our route blog entries for more.
Cost of living:
Diesel is cheaper than in Greece and Italy. We paid around €1.08 a litre. Food shopping seemed on a par or perhaps slightly cheaper than Greece and Turkey.
The verdict
All things considered: Yes, we would recommend Croatia! We’re glad we went and could have stayed longer. If it wasn’t for the money side of things it would be an excellent place for cruisers, but who cares about cruisers when there are so many charterers with money to spend. Needless to say ensigns were virtually non-existent. Oh, and be prepared to see lots of bare bums…and more!
P.S. Now that we’re back in Italy we’re missing the Croatian anchorages and with hindsight (oh, wonderful hindsight) I wish I’d twisted Derek’s arm to pay to stay longer in Croatia.
Dear Mr. Gray,
In addition to your e-mail about sojourn tax we are informing you as follows.
In accordance with Ordinance of sojourn tax for 2010 (Official gazette 139/09) which had entered into force at 28th November 2009 and Article 3a of the Amendment of the Ordinance of sojourn tax for 2010 (Official gazette 38/10), which had entered into force at 8th of April 2010, the owner of the vessel or any of the passengers which are staying over night on the vessel are due to pay flat fee – sojourn tax depending on the length of the vessel and duration of the visit. Below you can find a table of the flat fee –sojourn tax amounts.
For any additional information and/or complaints you can visit web page of the Ministry of tourism ( http://www.mint.hr ) or Croatian National Tourist Board (http://croatia.hr/en-GB/Homepage).
Sincerely yours,
Mr. Stjepan Vuk,
Head of Sector,
Safety of navigation, maritime and inland waters protection Directorate
Ministry of Sea, Transport and Infrastructure
Table of the flat fee - sojourn tax amounts
Length of the vessel Period Amount in national currency (Kuna)
5- 9 meters till 8 days 150,00
till 15 days 300,00
till 30 days 400,00
till 90 days 600,00
till 1 year 1.000,00
9- 12 meters till 8 days 200,00
till 15 days 350,00
till 30 days 500,00
till 90 days 650,00
till 1 year 1.100,00
12- 15 meters till 8 days 300,00
till 15 days 400,00
till 30 days 600,00
till 90 days 750,00
till 1 year 1.300,00
15- 20 meters till 8 days 400,00
till 15 days 500,00
till 30 days 700,00
till 90 days 850,00
till 1 year 1.500,00
Over 20 meters till 8 days 600,00
till 15 days 800,00
till 30 days 1.000,00
till 90 days 1.300,00
till 1 year 1.700,00
Hramina, Murter Island
N43°49.47 E015°35.15
A nice area. It looks tricky to get in and out but isn’t as bad as it appears. When we came from the north we went between Arta Velika and the mainland. There was enough water to go south of the marked shoal patch. When we left Murter we went through the channel between Prisnjak Mali and Radelji.
Shallow anchorage. We had to really persevere to get the anchor to hold. Perhaps fine sand or gravel bottom. Pleasant little holiday type town with several decent supermarkets from one end of the town to the other. Fuel berth.
A nice area. It looks tricky to get in and out but isn’t as bad as it appears. When we came from the north we went between Arta Velika and the mainland. There was enough water to go south of the marked shoal patch. When we left Murter we went through the channel between Prisnjak Mali and Radelji.
Shallow anchorage. We had to really persevere to get the anchor to hold. Perhaps fine sand or gravel bottom. Pleasant little holiday type town with several decent supermarkets from one end of the town to the other. Fuel berth.
Lamjana Mala, Ugljan Island
N44°02.72 E015°12.97
Fish farm area. Good holding. Hamlet ashore but we didn’t land. Lots of activity and not as remote as most of our island anchorages.
Fish farm area. Good holding. Hamlet ashore but we didn’t land. Lots of activity and not as remote as most of our island anchorages.
Plijeski, Losinj Island
N44°29.22 E014°30.47
A very small, remote cove. Patchy rocky bottom. Path around the edge of the cove to explore.
A very small, remote cove. Patchy rocky bottom. Path around the edge of the cove to explore.
Zabodaski, Losinj Island
N44°33.56 E014°23.86
We just did a beach stop here. The holding was slightly tricky because of rocky patches. Nice for a swim and easy to land at the rocks and walk in the woods ashore.
We just did a beach stop here. The holding was slightly tricky because of rocky patches. Nice for a swim and easy to land at the rocks and walk in the woods ashore.
Podkujni, Unije Island
N44°39.35 E014°15.49
Uninhabited cove. It took us a couple of attempts before we could get the anchor to hold (it sounded like the bottom was rocky). Calm night so we didn’t test the holding.
Uninhabited cove. It took us a couple of attempts before we could get the anchor to hold (it sounded like the bottom was rocky). Calm night so we didn’t test the holding.
St Elena Yacht Club, Venice
N45°25.73 E012°21.88
Berths are available to visitors when unoccupied by the Club members. We tried to call the club on the radio but didn’t get any reply so just arrived. After a bit of milling around someone directed us to a berth right outside the office. There are piles to tie to (like in Holland). Water and electricity supplies at the berths. The loos and showers are in portacabins by the office. The vaporetto stop is a ten minute walk away and St Mark’s square a 20 to 30 minute walk. On the way to the centre, somewhere near the Arsenale vaporetto stop on St Mark’s canal, turn right down a wide shopping street to find the small supermarket. Marina charges 55 Euro a night plus 4 Euro per person per night Tourist Tax.
Berths are available to visitors when unoccupied by the Club members. We tried to call the club on the radio but didn’t get any reply so just arrived. After a bit of milling around someone directed us to a berth right outside the office. There are piles to tie to (like in Holland). Water and electricity supplies at the berths. The loos and showers are in portacabins by the office. The vaporetto stop is a ten minute walk away and St Mark’s square a 20 to 30 minute walk. On the way to the centre, somewhere near the Arsenale vaporetto stop on St Mark’s canal, turn right down a wide shopping street to find the small supermarket. Marina charges 55 Euro a night plus 4 Euro per person per night Tourist Tax.
Tuesday, 29 June 2010
MORE TAX - Croatia
(28th June 2010)
We've just returned to Croatia from Venice. When we checked in we were told we would have to pay a tax. We produced our valid cruising permit (vignette) and explained that when we originally checked in the Harbour Master said we could leave Croatia and return again as many times as we liked - every day 365 times if we wanted. This, the official informed us, was a new regulation (about 2-3 weeks old). The tax is a 'sojourn' fee because we have beds on the boat and are staying as a type of temporary resident. Previously the tax was added to marina charges. They have presumably worked out that they can collect more revenue by charging it as a lump sum on entry.
We've just returned to Croatia from Venice. When we checked in we were told we would have to pay a tax. We produced our valid cruising permit (vignette) and explained that when we originally checked in the Harbour Master said we could leave Croatia and return again as many times as we liked - every day 365 times if we wanted. This, the official informed us, was a new regulation (about 2-3 weeks old). The tax is a 'sojourn' fee because we have beds on the boat and are staying as a type of temporary resident. Previously the tax was added to marina charges. They have presumably worked out that they can collect more revenue by charging it as a lump sum on entry.
The tax varies depending on how long you are staying in Croatia and what length your boat is but for us the charges are as follows:
12-15 metres
8 days 300 kuna
15 days 400 kuna
30 days 600 kuna about ?85
90 days 750 kuna
If you know the cost before visiting a country you can decide whether you want to go or not but, having paid 1,765 Kuna on entry, being charged another 600 Kuna felt like a smack in the teeth.
Friday, 25 June 2010
Rovinj
N45°04.21 E013°38.00
(June 2010)
Very pleasant town – old and new. We had NW wind so the anchorage was a bit bouncy but we put up with it because we knew the wind was decreasing. Good holding. Nice park on the shoreline from the anchorage. Mini market at the marina but a better stocked one in the town (same name). Fruit and veg market in the old town.
We checked out of Croatia from here. Had to take Sandpiper to the customs quay. The Police are in the pinkie/orangey building at the end of the quay on the right. ***They are there 24 hours a day and to check out we only needed a stamp from them. The Harbour Master’s office is around the corner and up the stairs. Their opening hours sign (which is upstairs so you can’t see it from outside the building) indicates that they only work office type hours but we didn’t try to go there outside these hours anyway.
***When we returned from Venice and checked back in here the Harbourmaster said that what the Police told us about only needing to see them on check out was wrong!
This is where we were charged the Sojourn Tax. See previous entry: ‘Extra Tax’.
(June 2010)
Very pleasant town – old and new. We had NW wind so the anchorage was a bit bouncy but we put up with it because we knew the wind was decreasing. Good holding. Nice park on the shoreline from the anchorage. Mini market at the marina but a better stocked one in the town (same name). Fruit and veg market in the old town.
We checked out of Croatia from here. Had to take Sandpiper to the customs quay. The Police are in the pinkie/orangey building at the end of the quay on the right. ***They are there 24 hours a day and to check out we only needed a stamp from them. The Harbour Master’s office is around the corner and up the stairs. Their opening hours sign (which is upstairs so you can’t see it from outside the building) indicates that they only work office type hours but we didn’t try to go there outside these hours anyway.
***When we returned from Venice and checked back in here the Harbourmaster said that what the Police told us about only needing to see them on check out was wrong!
This is where we were charged the Sojourn Tax. See previous entry: ‘Extra Tax’.
Pula
N44°52.66 E013°50.65
(June 2010)
Good holding. Smelly - sewage pong. Charged for anchoring (96HNK/£11/?13). Only stayed one night! Pula is a great town - old and new. Chandleries near the marina. Tourist information in the old town (in the forum square where the Temple of Augustus is). Very good produce market (from Tourist Information: carry on through the pedestrianised Old Town as far as you can go - you'll go under an arch, cross the main road and just a bit further on the market square is ahead) with a supermarket nearby (underground level).
(June 2010)
Good holding. Smelly - sewage pong. Charged for anchoring (96HNK/£11/?13). Only stayed one night! Pula is a great town - old and new. Chandleries near the marina. Tourist information in the old town (in the forum square where the Temple of Augustus is). Very good produce market (from Tourist Information: carry on through the pedestrianised Old Town as far as you can go - you'll go under an arch, cross the main road and just a bit further on the market square is ahead) with a supermarket nearby (underground level).
Soline (U. Kanalic), Near Veruda
N44°49.86 E013°51.51
(June 2010)
CAUTION: RISK OF THEFT. Whilst we were here, our friends woke one morning to discover that their dinghy had been stolen. The outboard was locked on to the dinghy but the thieves managed to remove it and then dumped the dinghy at the shore minus an oar. The bung for the drain in the rigid floor had also been removed.
(June 2010)
CAUTION: RISK OF THEFT. Whilst we were here, our friends woke one morning to discover that their dinghy had been stolen. The outboard was locked on to the dinghy but the thieves managed to remove it and then dumped the dinghy at the shore minus an oar. The bung for the drain in the rigid floor had also been removed.
We'll always treat this anchorage with extra caution because of the theft, which is a shame because otherwise it would have been very good. It's very popular but big so a lot of boats can fit in. The holding and protection are very good. We landed at the small pontoons at the head of the inlet. From here there are several walks. To the left, once you land, and up through the housing to the main road is a mini market. We got a bus from outside the mini market to Pula (15HNK per person each way/about ?2, roughly hourly, just before the hour). We also hired a car from Europe Car near Veruda Marina (HNK380/about ?50) and toured the Istria area for the day. A man in a boat comes around the anchorage selling fruit and veg.
Filled up with diesel at Veruda Marina (7.65HNK currently £.88/?1.03 litre) Their fuel berth is easily accessible and is on the starboard side as you approach the marina.
Liski, Losinj
N44°35.50 E014°23.01
(June 2010)
And another good sail. Still heading north so just stopped overnight and didn't go ashore (except to walk Flossie around the shoreline). Good holding and shelter in southerly winds. Not much there - possibly a restaurant in the corner.
(June 2010)
And another good sail. Still heading north so just stopped overnight and didn't go ashore (except to walk Flossie around the shoreline). Good holding and shelter in southerly winds. Not much there - possibly a restaurant in the corner.
Luka Jazi, Molat
N44°13.24 E014°52.74
Another good sail to get here. Good holding and protection in southerly wind. Path/road ashore looked like it crossed to the village but didn't explore it a lot because there were 'No Dogs' signs on it. There's an inhabited property ashore with a closed up bit that looks like it could be a shop or restaurant in the high season perhaps.
Another good sail to get here. Good holding and protection in southerly wind. Path/road ashore looked like it crossed to the village but didn't explore it a lot because there were 'No Dogs' signs on it. There's an inhabited property ashore with a closed up bit that looks like it could be a shop or restaurant in the high season perhaps.
Sali, Dugi Otok
Pit stop only. We anchored just outside the harbour and dinghied ashore for provisions. (Thanks D&G for the taxi ride). Well stocked mini-market and small fruit & veg stall in the street.
Pinizelic, Zut
N43°53.13 E015°15.53
(June 2010)
Had an excellent sail amongst the islands to get here. Anchor went in well, quiet/remote anchorage with just a couple of fishing cottages ashore and nothing else.
(June 2010)
Had an excellent sail amongst the islands to get here. Anchor went in well, quiet/remote anchorage with just a couple of fishing cottages ashore and nothing else.
Rogoznica
N43°31.88 E015°58.29
(June 2010)
Anchored to the east of the causeway. Anchoring here might be a bit restricted as suitable depths are in a narrow area close in around the edge and there’s also a ‘no anchorage’ area to avoid (a cable probably, well marked with upside down anchors). The bottom sounded rocky where we were. Another time we would investigate anchoring at the top of the inlet if we were planning to stop a while. Didn’t go ashore again – still heading north. Could see a mini market at the causeway.
On our way back down, in July, we anchored off the beach before the causeway bay. The holding was better here.
(June 2010)
Anchored to the east of the causeway. Anchoring here might be a bit restricted as suitable depths are in a narrow area close in around the edge and there’s also a ‘no anchorage’ area to avoid (a cable probably, well marked with upside down anchors). The bottom sounded rocky where we were. Another time we would investigate anchoring at the top of the inlet if we were planning to stop a while. Didn’t go ashore again – still heading north. Could see a mini market at the causeway.
On our way back down, in July, we anchored off the beach before the causeway bay. The holding was better here.
U. Luka, Loviste
N43°01.77 E017°01.57
(June 2010)
Holding good. We didn't go ashore as we were making as much north as possible with southerly winds. Seemed like a popular anchorage - bet it'll be very busy in July and August. Could see restaurants ashore.
(June 2010)
Holding good. We didn't go ashore as we were making as much north as possible with southerly winds. Seemed like a popular anchorage - bet it'll be very busy in July and August. Could see restaurants ashore.
Luka Polace, Mljet National Park
(June 2010)
N42°47.50 E017°22.64
Anchored and tied back. Nice! All visitors to the National Park pay an entrance fee (HNK90 per person/?13). A launch collects the fees from yachts. The ticket includes a mini bus and ferry ride to the lakes (Malo Jezero and Velikho Jezero) and former monastery (closed). Get the bus from the wooden cabin by the castle ruin. Hold on to your Park tickets as they are valid all season should you return to the anchorage. Mini markets ashore.
N42°47.50 E017°22.64
Anchored and tied back. Nice! All visitors to the National Park pay an entrance fee (HNK90 per person/?13). A launch collects the fees from yachts. The ticket includes a mini bus and ferry ride to the lakes (Malo Jezero and Velikho Jezero) and former monastery (closed). Get the bus from the wooden cabin by the castle ruin. Hold on to your Park tickets as they are valid all season should you return to the anchorage. Mini markets ashore.
There are several trails to walk on Mljet but the one we walked (from the anchorage to Govedari) was a bit overgrown - probably because it was quite early in the season. Snakes on the path but the locals tell us they're harmless.
Slano
N42°46.42 E017°53.00
(May 2010)
Anchored and tied back outside the little church in the corner of Banja. Deep water comes up suddenly at the edge. Lovely little spot but the wind got up so we moved to free anchor at the head of the inlet.
(May 2010)
Anchored and tied back outside the little church in the corner of Banja. Deep water comes up suddenly at the edge. Lovely little spot but the wind got up so we moved to free anchor at the head of the inlet.
N42°47.16 E017°53.15
At the head of inlet. Quite deep but good holding. No anchoring charge collected. Mini market in the village (just off the front). Lovely walks all around the inlet. This area was badly hit during the 1991-92 conflict and we met a few people who had been coming here for several years and spoke about how it was flattened.
Bus to Dubrovnik (19HNK per person each way - about £2.30/?2.70). Takes about an hour. From the bus station walk back the way you came to the Old Town but go along the road that runs parallel with the one the bus comes in on (it's a bit quieter). About a 20-30 minute walk. We visited War Photo Limited exhibition in the Old Town (signposted, entry 30HNK/?4) and walked the city walls (70HNK/?10).
Lopud
N42°41.49 E017°56.25
(May 2010)
Only stopped here for a quick visit. The holding seemed good (the anchor went in well and mud came up when we lifted it). An attractive place. Walked Flossie in the little exotic gardens.
(May 2010)
Only stopped here for a quick visit. The holding seemed good (the anchor went in well and mud came up when we lifted it). An attractive place. Walked Flossie in the little exotic gardens.
Thursday, 3 June 2010
Cavtat, Croatia
N42°35.11 E018°13.25
(May 2010)
You check in at Cavtat between 1 April and 30 October. We’ve read about people being fined for skipping a check in place so it’s advisable, if you’re coming from the south, to check in at Cavtat rather than Dubrovnik, during the season. Anyway, Dubrovnik is supposedly busy and takes ages.
The customs berth is on the portside of the town harbour and its marked with a big yellow sign with a black ‘Q’. Once on the shore, facing the cafes, it’s left for the Port Police (about 100 yards, set back a bit from the road but I don’t remember seeing a sign) and right for the Harbour Master (200 yards, at the end of the row of cafes, there’s a Croatian flag outside). We arrived around 7am and officials started appearing at about 8am. Checking in was easy (the Harbour Master is very friendly) if you discount the parting with 1,740 Kuna (1 Kuna is currently equivalent to about 12p so that’s about £210/€240) for the vignette (fees cover: safety of navigation, light dues, info chart, Govt admin). The vignette lasts a year regardless of the number of times you leave Croatia and re-enter. You have to pay in cash – either Euro or Kuna (there is an ATM in the town - further along from the HM office and bear left). You have to leave the Customs berth immediately after checking in. They charge 50% of the town mooring fees if you anchor in the harbour (didn’t bother to find out how much that was) but it’s free to anchor on the other side of the little peninsula and its easy to get to town from there.
We really liked Cavtat, it’s a charming little holiday town. There’s a small but well stocked mini market opposite the bank, a bakers on the same side as the bank and a fruit and veg stall just before the bakers. The walks around the peninsula and the headland are very pleasant.
You can get a bus from here to Dubrovnik (fare 12HNK/£1.45).
(May 2010)
You check in at Cavtat between 1 April and 30 October. We’ve read about people being fined for skipping a check in place so it’s advisable, if you’re coming from the south, to check in at Cavtat rather than Dubrovnik, during the season. Anyway, Dubrovnik is supposedly busy and takes ages.
The customs berth is on the portside of the town harbour and its marked with a big yellow sign with a black ‘Q’. Once on the shore, facing the cafes, it’s left for the Port Police (about 100 yards, set back a bit from the road but I don’t remember seeing a sign) and right for the Harbour Master (200 yards, at the end of the row of cafes, there’s a Croatian flag outside). We arrived around 7am and officials started appearing at about 8am. Checking in was easy (the Harbour Master is very friendly) if you discount the parting with 1,740 Kuna (1 Kuna is currently equivalent to about 12p so that’s about £210/€240) for the vignette (fees cover: safety of navigation, light dues, info chart, Govt admin). The vignette lasts a year regardless of the number of times you leave Croatia and re-enter. You have to pay in cash – either Euro or Kuna (there is an ATM in the town - further along from the HM office and bear left). You have to leave the Customs berth immediately after checking in. They charge 50% of the town mooring fees if you anchor in the harbour (didn’t bother to find out how much that was) but it’s free to anchor on the other side of the little peninsula and its easy to get to town from there.
We really liked Cavtat, it’s a charming little holiday town. There’s a small but well stocked mini market opposite the bank, a bakers on the same side as the bank and a fruit and veg stall just before the bakers. The walks around the peninsula and the headland are very pleasant.
You can get a bus from here to Dubrovnik (fare 12HNK/£1.45).
More of the Aegean
(September and October 2008)
From our route across the Aegean, east to west. (Poros, Kithnos and Simi have 2010 entries)
Korfos N37°45.80 E023°07.79
Quiet and very pleasant. Holding OK but it was quite calm when we were there so we didn’t really test it. Small to med grocery shop in the east of the bay. Several tavernas had moorings with electricity and water.
Aigina N37°44.50 E023°25.74
We only went here because we thought it might be possible to leave the boat and get a ferry to Athens but the conditions made us change our mind. There is an anchorage outside the harbour but the holding is not the best. It’s a sand and weed bottom and it’s quite hard to get well into the sand properly. There is lots and lots of ferry and other traffic wash as the harbour is extremely busy. It is possible to go into the harbour and med moor at the wall but it is very crowded and everything bounces around like crazy with the wash. The town is very popular and consequently loud, although in its favour it is quite a pleasant town despite being geared towards the Athens ‘townies’. To get to the large supermarket from the anchorage – once you land turn right and go along the front, turn left after the playing field.
N. Kea
Ay Nikolaou, Vourkari N37°40.05 E024°19.56
Holding OK in the anchorage at the head of the bay. Also a harbour wall but lots of Athens racers in when we were there. Convenience shop only. Nice walks.
Korissa – town in south of bay just a mile from Nikolaou.
Anchored off beach in SE corner. Holding OK. Wifi on board. Medium sized but well stocked ‘AB’ supermarket (from the anchorage it’s to the left of the front). Nice bakers on front. For fuel station carry on to left of town and it’s signposted. I preferred Korissa to Vourkari.
Siros
Finikas N37°23.29 E024°52.92 and N37°23.74 E024°52.68
When we first arrived we anchored by the unfinished pontoons but then moved to anchor outside the harbour. Visitors also tied back to the outside wall of the harbour. Free wifi, nice bakers, good holding and shelter. Bus to Ermoupolis (great UNESCO town) €3.20 return. Bus stop by the cash point machine on the corner.
Mikonos
O. Ornos N37°25.19 E025°19.43
Medium sized supermarket, baker, butcher, greengrocer. Wifi. Bus to Mikonos town (€2.80 return, ticket machine ashore) only takes about 20 minutes. No water tap. Holding was fine once you were in.
Korfos N37°23.72 E025°15.39
We also anchored here, on the opposite side to Ornos. It’s quite handy having the anchorages on both sides for the wind shifts. The beach is a rubbish tip (because of the prevailing wind) but the holding and shelter were good.
We walked from town to Mikonos New Harbour (Mikonos marina??!) to check it out (you cant go in to the old harbour) but it was the pits. It’s a long, dusty walk from the town and you have to dodge the heavy traffic. When you get to the marina it’s bleak, unfinished and uninviting. We much preferred the anchorages.
Panormos N37°27.75 E025°22.56
Isolated and barren but to be fair we only spent the night there and then went back to Korfos as it seemed too remote and we had friends visiting us.
Delos N37°23.72 E025°15.39
Anchored and went ashore by dinghy to visit the ruins and museum. Not a place to stay overnight but OK for a visit. Can land your dinghy where the tripper boats come in – they were pleasant and accommodating. Liked the walk to the top of the hill within the grounds of the ruins – lovely views.
O. Roussa, Dhenoussa N37°07.46 E025°49.22
Good holding in sand. Remote and very quiet. There were houses ashore but the whole place was shut up.
Levitha N36°59.92 E026°26.80
We anchored in the western arm of the bay and we had the whole spot to ourselves – quiet and isolated again. Just an overnight stop for us. You can also use the mooring bouys in the eastern arm of the bay (possibly a small charge). Said to be very safe in a blow.
O. Vathi, on W side of Pserimos N36°56.14 E027°09.13
On the way we called in to the fuel quay on the entrance to Kalimnos but there was no-one around and so we couldn’t fill up. The anchorage at Pserimos was yet another quiet, isolated, over night stop.
From our route across the Aegean, east to west. (Poros, Kithnos and Simi have 2010 entries)
Korfos N37°45.80 E023°07.79
Quiet and very pleasant. Holding OK but it was quite calm when we were there so we didn’t really test it. Small to med grocery shop in the east of the bay. Several tavernas had moorings with electricity and water.
Aigina N37°44.50 E023°25.74
We only went here because we thought it might be possible to leave the boat and get a ferry to Athens but the conditions made us change our mind. There is an anchorage outside the harbour but the holding is not the best. It’s a sand and weed bottom and it’s quite hard to get well into the sand properly. There is lots and lots of ferry and other traffic wash as the harbour is extremely busy. It is possible to go into the harbour and med moor at the wall but it is very crowded and everything bounces around like crazy with the wash. The town is very popular and consequently loud, although in its favour it is quite a pleasant town despite being geared towards the Athens ‘townies’. To get to the large supermarket from the anchorage – once you land turn right and go along the front, turn left after the playing field.
N. Kea
Ay Nikolaou, Vourkari N37°40.05 E024°19.56
Holding OK in the anchorage at the head of the bay. Also a harbour wall but lots of Athens racers in when we were there. Convenience shop only. Nice walks.
Korissa – town in south of bay just a mile from Nikolaou.
Anchored off beach in SE corner. Holding OK. Wifi on board. Medium sized but well stocked ‘AB’ supermarket (from the anchorage it’s to the left of the front). Nice bakers on front. For fuel station carry on to left of town and it’s signposted. I preferred Korissa to Vourkari.
Siros
Finikas N37°23.29 E024°52.92 and N37°23.74 E024°52.68
When we first arrived we anchored by the unfinished pontoons but then moved to anchor outside the harbour. Visitors also tied back to the outside wall of the harbour. Free wifi, nice bakers, good holding and shelter. Bus to Ermoupolis (great UNESCO town) €3.20 return. Bus stop by the cash point machine on the corner.
Mikonos
O. Ornos N37°25.19 E025°19.43
Medium sized supermarket, baker, butcher, greengrocer. Wifi. Bus to Mikonos town (€2.80 return, ticket machine ashore) only takes about 20 minutes. No water tap. Holding was fine once you were in.
Korfos N37°23.72 E025°15.39
We also anchored here, on the opposite side to Ornos. It’s quite handy having the anchorages on both sides for the wind shifts. The beach is a rubbish tip (because of the prevailing wind) but the holding and shelter were good.
We walked from town to Mikonos New Harbour (Mikonos marina??!) to check it out (you cant go in to the old harbour) but it was the pits. It’s a long, dusty walk from the town and you have to dodge the heavy traffic. When you get to the marina it’s bleak, unfinished and uninviting. We much preferred the anchorages.
Panormos N37°27.75 E025°22.56
Isolated and barren but to be fair we only spent the night there and then went back to Korfos as it seemed too remote and we had friends visiting us.
Delos N37°23.72 E025°15.39
Anchored and went ashore by dinghy to visit the ruins and museum. Not a place to stay overnight but OK for a visit. Can land your dinghy where the tripper boats come in – they were pleasant and accommodating. Liked the walk to the top of the hill within the grounds of the ruins – lovely views.
O. Roussa, Dhenoussa N37°07.46 E025°49.22
Good holding in sand. Remote and very quiet. There were houses ashore but the whole place was shut up.
Levitha N36°59.92 E026°26.80
We anchored in the western arm of the bay and we had the whole spot to ourselves – quiet and isolated again. Just an overnight stop for us. You can also use the mooring bouys in the eastern arm of the bay (possibly a small charge). Said to be very safe in a blow.
O. Vathi, on W side of Pserimos N36°56.14 E027°09.13
On the way we called in to the fuel quay on the entrance to Kalimnos but there was no-one around and so we couldn’t fill up. The anchorage at Pserimos was yet another quiet, isolated, over night stop.
Poros
Ormos Vidhi
N37°31.14 E023°24.35
(May 2010)
Another overnight stop only. Good holding and shelter. We visited here in 2008 when we were coming the other way. Here’s our note from then:
(September 2008)
There are several good places to stop around Poros
O. Vidhi (North Cove) N37°31.10 E023°24.02
Excellent holding, very peaceful. Nothing there although we did land and take Flossie on a nice walk.
Poros Town N37°30.07 E023°26.69 (4 miles from Vidhi)
We anchored opposite the south of the town. Good holding. The town is charming although its quite touristy and busy. Couple of small/med supermarkets. There are also moorings in town with electricity and water.
Russian Bay N37°31.06 E023°26.07 (just 1.5 from town)
Anchored in bay for a swim. Good holding. Café on the beach.
N37°31.14 E023°24.35
(May 2010)
Another overnight stop only. Good holding and shelter. We visited here in 2008 when we were coming the other way. Here’s our note from then:
(September 2008)
There are several good places to stop around Poros
O. Vidhi (North Cove) N37°31.10 E023°24.02
Excellent holding, very peaceful. Nothing there although we did land and take Flossie on a nice walk.
Poros Town N37°30.07 E023°26.69 (4 miles from Vidhi)
We anchored opposite the south of the town. Good holding. The town is charming although its quite touristy and busy. Couple of small/med supermarkets. There are also moorings in town with electricity and water.
Russian Bay N37°31.06 E023°26.07 (just 1.5 from town)
Anchored in bay for a swim. Good holding. Café on the beach.
Monday, 31 May 2010
Kithnos
Ormos Apokriosis
N37°24.79 E024°23.75
(May 2010)
N37°24.79 E024°23.75
(May 2010)
Just an overnight stop. Holding was good in muddy sand. Quiet night. We had tried to anchor in Ormos Kolona but had to abandon that idea when we couldn't get the anchor to dig in through the weed. We visited the north east of Kithnos in 2008. Here's our note from then:
(September 2008)
O. Ay Irini N37°26.37 E024°25.99
Anchored and tied back to rocks in north side. Tried to anchor in bay to west of Ay Irini but thick weed and holding impossible. Very quiet. Taverna ashore. Small, pleasant harbour in Loutra too. Small shops. Thermal spring pool at the beach (Loutra) on left - delightful!
Wednesday, 28 April 2010
Paroikia, Paros
N37°05.54 E025°09.02
(April 2010)
(April 2010)
Anchored in the north bay (the furthest east one). Good holding and shelter in strong/gale force northerlies.
There's a garage on the road out of town (the road runs parallel with the harbour front). 100m past the garage, on the right, is a medium sized Carrefore. From the harbour: cut up the side street to get to the garage/Carrefore road (with your back to the harbour head left and take first right turn). This cut through street has a fish shop, a bakers and a good fruit and veg shop.
We liked Paroikia old town. The narrow, whitewashed streets are typically Greek - it's like Mikonos but smaller. The 6th century church at the beginning of the old town is a very attractive bit of architecture.
Katapola, Amorgos
N36°49.62 E025°51.55
(April 2010)
(April 2010)
Anchored in the bay to the west of the quay (forecast was for light wind from the south). Holding and shelter were fine. It was fairly deep until we were close in to the beach. We didn't go ashore, as we wanted to keep moving west whilst the weather held up and, so, left the next morning.
Ormos Maltezana, Astipalaia
N36°34.55 E026°23.18 (*but see note below)
(April 2010)
(April 2010)
A calm and well sheltered anchorage, to the west of the pier. *We were in 3m and our anchor got fouled on a big chain that comes off the wreck, lying closer in. My prize for not avoiding this hefty obstacle, in the first place, was an invigorating dip early the next morning to attach a tripping line. We didn't go ashore so don't have any details of what's there.
Ormos Kamares, Kos
N36°44.08 E026°58.42
(April 2010)
(April 2010)
Good holding and shelter (to the south of the outer mole) from strong W/NW wind. Didn't go ashore but we could see a shop that looked like it would be open once the holiday season really got going.
Pethi, Simi
N36°36.81 E027°51.42
(April 2010)
(April 2010)
Good holding and shelter, to the south of the pier. There's a small shop on the harbour front, for basics, and a garage a few minutes walk along the road inland. The bus to Simi town leaves from the harbour front (as 25 past the hour, from what we could tell). In Oct 2008, when we first here, the fare was ?1.
Friday, 23 April 2010
Mandraki Cove, Kastellorizon
N36°08.92 E029°35.89
(April 2010)
Anchored in the middle of Mandraki harbour. It’s shallow: we were anchored in 4m and weren’t as close in as we would have liked but it was close enough to get adequate shelter. The holding was good. A very pleasant and attractive spot.
I read an old note, in the Turkish Waters Pilot, that it was possible to check into Greece at Kastellorizon but not possible to get a Transit Log. As we already had a Traffic Document, and as EU citizens we don’t need a Cruising Permit, we thought we’d see if we could complete the formalities here. The Port Control Office is on the end of the jetty (pass the Duty Free shop and keep going, towards the end and around to the right). The Customs Office is next door. Passport Control is in a portacabin outside Duty Free. The Port Control guy was the most courteous and accommodating official we’ve ever met. We paid our €15 check in fee and €10 for two nights port dues, got our Traffic Doc stamped in and out of Kastellorizon at the same time (to save us from returning for an exit stamp the next morning), completed a crew list and lodged copies with Port Control and then with Passport Control who also checked our passports. The Customs lady spends a lot of her time at the Duty Free shop and she made sure we were pointed in the right direction for each official. Checking in there was a pleasant, straightforward experience for us.
(April 2010)
Anchored in the middle of Mandraki harbour. It’s shallow: we were anchored in 4m and weren’t as close in as we would have liked but it was close enough to get adequate shelter. The holding was good. A very pleasant and attractive spot.
I read an old note, in the Turkish Waters Pilot, that it was possible to check into Greece at Kastellorizon but not possible to get a Transit Log. As we already had a Traffic Document, and as EU citizens we don’t need a Cruising Permit, we thought we’d see if we could complete the formalities here. The Port Control Office is on the end of the jetty (pass the Duty Free shop and keep going, towards the end and around to the right). The Customs Office is next door. Passport Control is in a portacabin outside Duty Free. The Port Control guy was the most courteous and accommodating official we’ve ever met. We paid our €15 check in fee and €10 for two nights port dues, got our Traffic Doc stamped in and out of Kastellorizon at the same time (to save us from returning for an exit stamp the next morning), completed a crew list and lodged copies with Port Control and then with Passport Control who also checked our passports. The Customs lady spends a lot of her time at the Duty Free shop and she made sure we were pointed in the right direction for each official. Checking in there was a pleasant, straightforward experience for us.
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