N36°12.36 E029°53.58
(October 2009)
Anchored and tied back to rock. Cold spring at the shoreline right behind us. Lycian Way walk around the shoreline is marked by red and white stripes on the rocks. There’s a cave to explore at the nearby island (Ashil Adası).
Friday, 18 December 2009
Polemos Bükü, Kekova, south coast of Turkey
N36°09.96 E029°48.21
(October 2009)
Good holding and shelter. Land at the head of the inlet (restaurants here) for a pleasant walk and a sunken sarcophagus photo op.
(October 2009)
Good holding and shelter. Land at the head of the inlet (restaurants here) for a pleasant walk and a sunken sarcophagus photo op.
Wall Bay, Skopea Limanı, south coast of Turkey
N36°38.50 E028°51.06
(October 2009)
Hmmmmm, lovely! Good holding and shelter (anchored and tied back to the orange bollards), nice water for swimming, a peaceful and enjoyable bay. We walked around the coast from here back towards Sarsala Iskelesı, along the path with the red and green dots again. Just walk past the restaurant jetty and along the shoreline until you pick up the dots. We saw something skipping along the rocks here; it had a bushy red tail – could it have been a red squirrel, do you get them here?
Also did the dot to dot walk in the opposite direction towards Ruin Bay.
(October 2009)
Hmmmmm, lovely! Good holding and shelter (anchored and tied back to the orange bollards), nice water for swimming, a peaceful and enjoyable bay. We walked around the coast from here back towards Sarsala Iskelesı, along the path with the red and green dots again. Just walk past the restaurant jetty and along the shoreline until you pick up the dots. We saw something skipping along the rocks here; it had a bushy red tail – could it have been a red squirrel, do you get them here?
Also did the dot to dot walk in the opposite direction towards Ruin Bay.
Boynüz Bükü, Skopea Limanı. South coast of Turkey
N36°42.80 E028°53.87
(October 2009)
We anchored and tied back to orange bollards. Several boats were free anchored here but it’s very deep. The holding was good. There’s a restaurant pontoon at the head with water available (quite expensive to eat at the restaurant though). We were driven away from here by the hoards of mozzies and man-eating flies.
(October 2009)
We anchored and tied back to orange bollards. Several boats were free anchored here but it’s very deep. The holding was good. There’s a restaurant pontoon at the head with water available (quite expensive to eat at the restaurant though). We were driven away from here by the hoards of mozzies and man-eating flies.
Göcek, south coast of Turkey
N36°45.24 E028°56.13
(October 2009)
We anchored in front of Skopea Marina. The holding was very good. The wind tends to blow right into Göcek making the anchorage a bit bouncy at times. We landed at the municipal marina (go between the two pontoons and there’s a concrete wall at the head) but the wall is quite rough. There’s a handy rubbish skip just to the right. Our preferred landing spot was on the beach to the right of Skopea Marina. Göcek is a bit touristy/yachty but still pleasant. The shopping is good as the several supermarkets and good selection of chandlers are all close together.
(October 2009)
We anchored in front of Skopea Marina. The holding was very good. The wind tends to blow right into Göcek making the anchorage a bit bouncy at times. We landed at the municipal marina (go between the two pontoons and there’s a concrete wall at the head) but the wall is quite rough. There’s a handy rubbish skip just to the right. Our preferred landing spot was on the beach to the right of Skopea Marina. Göcek is a bit touristy/yachty but still pleasant. The shopping is good as the several supermarkets and good selection of chandlers are all close together.
Pilloried Cove, Sarsala Iskelesı, Skopea Limanı, south coast of Turkey
N36°39.52 E028°51.20
(October 2009)
Anchored and tied back to orange bollards. Good holding. It would have been a quiet spot except that we were moored amongst a row of 80 foot motor yachts. The head of Sarsala Iskelesı on the north side is buoyed off for swimming. There’s a little wooden building there that might be a café.
There’s a great walk from Pilloried Cove. Land at the foreshore (don’t be put off by the bushes coming right to the edge), cut through the bushes, walk about 50 metres in, turn left and follow the green and red dots. It takes you up and around the headland towards Wall Bay. Lovely views of Skopea Limanı from the top.
(October 2009)
Anchored and tied back to orange bollards. Good holding. It would have been a quiet spot except that we were moored amongst a row of 80 foot motor yachts. The head of Sarsala Iskelesı on the north side is buoyed off for swimming. There’s a little wooden building there that might be a café.
There’s a great walk from Pilloried Cove. Land at the foreshore (don’t be put off by the bushes coming right to the edge), cut through the bushes, walk about 50 metres in, turn left and follow the green and red dots. It takes you up and around the headland towards Wall Bay. Lovely views of Skopea Limanı from the top.
Tersane Creek, Tersane Adası, Skopea Limanı, south coast of Turkey
N36°40.53 E028°54.85
(September 2009)
This was the first time we’d come across the orange bollards (and mooring rings) common in the area. In Göcek town we saw information signs stating that if you moored to trees you would be fined.
Anchored and tied back on the west side. Holding and shelter good. On first glance this seems like a very busy tight spot and we nearly turned away at the entrance. Actually, there were several spaces and room to turn around at the head if there really wasn’t any room. This is a gulet stop on their ‘12 islands’ tours but most only stay for about half an hour. There is a restaurant pontoon at the head of the creek. A popular and pleasant spot.
(September 2009)
This was the first time we’d come across the orange bollards (and mooring rings) common in the area. In Göcek town we saw information signs stating that if you moored to trees you would be fined.
Anchored and tied back on the west side. Holding and shelter good. On first glance this seems like a very busy tight spot and we nearly turned away at the entrance. Actually, there were several spaces and room to turn around at the head if there really wasn’t any room. This is a gulet stop on their ‘12 islands’ tours but most only stay for about half an hour. There is a restaurant pontoon at the head of the creek. A popular and pleasant spot.
Monday, 21 September 2009
Bozuk Bükü, south coast of Turkey
N36°34.09 E028°00.77
(September 2009)
(September 2009)
Anchored and tied back to the north side of the west cove under the citadel. There's a yellow buoy here that looks like a mooring buoy but is actually marking a mooring chain lying on the bottom. Good holding and shelter (despite the storm that passed through during the night). The water is lovely and clear for swimming. There's a restaurant in the corner of the cove with its own jetty for visitors to med moor at. A popular spot with lots of activity. Several launches selling ice-cream, linen, fruit etc. In fact the ice cream seller approached us, like a thing possessed, before we'd even reached the entrance to the bay.
Friday, 11 September 2009
Datça, west coast of Turkey
N36°43.19 E027°41.33
(September 2009)
Anchored outside the harbour (surprisingly not noisy). Shelter good and holding OK once you’re well dug in. We landed at the wall between a couple of moored boats but others left their dinghies on the beach. BIM supermarket left off main street. Greengrocers in main street.
(September 2009)
Anchored outside the harbour (surprisingly not noisy). Shelter good and holding OK once you’re well dug in. We landed at the wall between a couple of moored boats but others left their dinghies on the beach. BIM supermarket left off main street. Greengrocers in main street.
Yedi Adaları, Gökova Körfezi, west coast of Turkey
N36°52.89 E028°03.32
(September 2009)
Another quiet and peaceful spot. Anchored and tied back, good holding and shelter. A great spot for a walk around the coast path with gorgeous views of the seven islands. Locals come by in a dinghy selling fresh bread, eggs, honey etc. (at a premium price obviously).
(September 2009)
Another quiet and peaceful spot. Anchored and tied back, good holding and shelter. A great spot for a walk around the coast path with gorgeous views of the seven islands. Locals come by in a dinghy selling fresh bread, eggs, honey etc. (at a premium price obviously).
Söğüt, Gökova Körfezi, west coast of Turkey
N36°56.71 E028°11.21
(September 2009)
Much busier here than back at English Harbour. We anchored and tied back to a rock but there are pontoons here too. Good holding and protection. Several restaurants and a couple of small shops. The shop we went in was overpriced, even for a village shop. Dolmuş to Marmaris (twice a day, TL5 each way, journey time about 45 mins).
(September 2009)
Much busier here than back at English Harbour. We anchored and tied back to a rock but there are pontoons here too. Good holding and protection. Several restaurants and a couple of small shops. The shop we went in was overpriced, even for a village shop. Dolmuş to Marmaris (twice a day, TL5 each way, journey time about 45 mins).
Tuesday, 8 September 2009
Bay to the east of English Harbour, Değirmen Bükü, Gökova Körfezi, west coast of Turkey
N36°55.40 E028°09.53
(August 2009)
The ultimate antidote to the Bodrum anchorage. Quiet, pretty and calm. The most frequent fast traffic here is the passing Kingfishers. Anchored and tied back, good holding and shelter. Heavenly!
Landed at English Harbour and walked the coast path – very nice too.
We also dinghied across to the other side of the water where there’s a pontoon for mooring. Water available. Restaurant/café and small shop.
(August 2009)
The ultimate antidote to the Bodrum anchorage. Quiet, pretty and calm. The most frequent fast traffic here is the passing Kingfishers. Anchored and tied back, good holding and shelter. Heavenly!
Landed at English Harbour and walked the coast path – very nice too.
We also dinghied across to the other side of the water where there’s a pontoon for mooring. Water available. Restaurant/café and small shop.
Kale Köyü, Bodrum, west coast of Turkey
N37°01.77 E027°25.98
(August 2009)
We anchored here with friends from Finike so that we could anchor watch for each other whilst on a visa run to Kos. Good holding and shelter but otherwise an uncomfortable anchorage. The hideously loud music goes on til 4am every morning and there is constant wash from passing traffic and RIBS flying about. The Coastguard seems to patrol this area rigorously too. It’s quite a dinghy ride from the anchorage around to the marina, which was OK in the morning before the wind got up but a bit of a wet ride if you were going ashore in the afternoon. We left the dinghy safely inside the marina area (past the ferries on the right, bear left and tie to the pontoon walkway straight in front of you). There is a rubbish collection point on the pontoon right where you land the dinghy. The town is pleasant. Maxi Tansaş is behind the otogar (from the pedestrianised area take the main road to the right and the bus station is on the left, the supermarket is up a ramp behind the station making the entrance not immediately obvious). There’s also a mini Carrefore on the marina front amongst the posh shops. We visited St Peter’s Castle, which houses the Underwater Archaeology Museum (TL10 per person). It’s extra to go into the Glass Wreck exhibition (TL5) but we thought that was the best bit. It’s also worth watching the short DVD about the wreck recovery before you go in.
Visa run to Kos –
Easy and straight forward with the added bonus that a visit to Kos is a lovely day out. The ferries are on the right as you round the breakwater into the marina area. Immigration Control is here too. Same day return ferry trip costs TL60. Make your booking and collect your boarding card from the ticket office on the jetty (just before the security gate if you’re coming from the castle direction). Take your boarding card to the Immigration Police and get your exit stamp in your passport. Then go to the window to buy a new visa sticker in readiness for re-entry. The ferry leaves at 9.30 and returns at 4.30 and you need to be there at least 30 minutes before to complete formalities. On arriving back in Bodrum go to the Immigration Police window again to get stamped back in.
(August 2009)
We anchored here with friends from Finike so that we could anchor watch for each other whilst on a visa run to Kos. Good holding and shelter but otherwise an uncomfortable anchorage. The hideously loud music goes on til 4am every morning and there is constant wash from passing traffic and RIBS flying about. The Coastguard seems to patrol this area rigorously too. It’s quite a dinghy ride from the anchorage around to the marina, which was OK in the morning before the wind got up but a bit of a wet ride if you were going ashore in the afternoon. We left the dinghy safely inside the marina area (past the ferries on the right, bear left and tie to the pontoon walkway straight in front of you). There is a rubbish collection point on the pontoon right where you land the dinghy. The town is pleasant. Maxi Tansaş is behind the otogar (from the pedestrianised area take the main road to the right and the bus station is on the left, the supermarket is up a ramp behind the station making the entrance not immediately obvious). There’s also a mini Carrefore on the marina front amongst the posh shops. We visited St Peter’s Castle, which houses the Underwater Archaeology Museum (TL10 per person). It’s extra to go into the Glass Wreck exhibition (TL5) but we thought that was the best bit. It’s also worth watching the short DVD about the wreck recovery before you go in.
Visa run to Kos –
Easy and straight forward with the added bonus that a visit to Kos is a lovely day out. The ferries are on the right as you round the breakwater into the marina area. Immigration Control is here too. Same day return ferry trip costs TL60. Make your booking and collect your boarding card from the ticket office on the jetty (just before the security gate if you’re coming from the castle direction). Take your boarding card to the Immigration Police and get your exit stamp in your passport. Then go to the window to buy a new visa sticker in readiness for re-entry. The ferry leaves at 9.30 and returns at 4.30 and you need to be there at least 30 minutes before to complete formalities. On arriving back in Bodrum go to the Immigration Police window again to get stamped back in.
Piresun Köyü, Yalikavak Limani, west coast of Turkey
N37°07.07 E027°16.22
(August 2009)
We tried to drop the anchor just behind the buoyed off beach but we had a bit of a job getting a hold there. We ended up a bit further back. Once well dug in the holding was good. On one of the three afternoons we were there it was quite gusty in the afternoon/evening. The shelter was good. Nice walks ashore. A couple of beach cafes but the loud music didn’t carry on into the night. A rubbish skip just behind the beach.
(August 2009)
We tried to drop the anchor just behind the buoyed off beach but we had a bit of a job getting a hold there. We ended up a bit further back. Once well dug in the holding was good. On one of the three afternoons we were there it was quite gusty in the afternoon/evening. The shelter was good. Nice walks ashore. A couple of beach cafes but the loud music didn’t carry on into the night. A rubbish skip just behind the beach.
Asin Limanı, Güllük Körfezi, west coast of Turkey
N37°16.51 E027°34.91
(August 2009)
Free anchored or anchored and tied back just inside the entrance on the west side. Holding good once pulled well into the soft mud. Shelter good. The afternoon wind consistently came from the south when we were here. We liked it here. Small village with a couple of shops for essentials and the usual restaurant/cafes. Apparently there is an hourly dolmuş to the town of Milas (journey time 45 minutes, cost TL5). The ruins of ancient Iassus are at the foot of the hill and on the top is the fort built by the Knights of St John. The archaeologists are still excavating at both sites. No entrance charge. A lovely site – middle of August and we virtually had the place to ourselves. There is also a quay wall where you can med moor. There are locked boxes on the quay that look like they contain a water supply but not sure about electric.
(August 2009)
Free anchored or anchored and tied back just inside the entrance on the west side. Holding good once pulled well into the soft mud. Shelter good. The afternoon wind consistently came from the south when we were here. We liked it here. Small village with a couple of shops for essentials and the usual restaurant/cafes. Apparently there is an hourly dolmuş to the town of Milas (journey time 45 minutes, cost TL5). The ruins of ancient Iassus are at the foot of the hill and on the top is the fort built by the Knights of St John. The archaeologists are still excavating at both sites. No entrance charge. A lovely site – middle of August and we virtually had the place to ourselves. There is also a quay wall where you can med moor. There are locked boxes on the quay that look like they contain a water supply but not sure about electric.
Kazikli Iskelesi, Güllük Körfezi, west coast of Turkey
N37°20.01 E027°28.66
(August 2009)
We anchored on the west side just before the head of the inlet. The holding and shelter were good but it’s a bit of a scruffy place because of all the litter ashore and the fish farm stuff everywhere. Not many other yachts around and it would have been very peaceful except for the fish farm traffic buzzing you. Murky water.
‘Paradise’ Bay
N37°19.15 E027°28.00
We anchored and tied back. Good holding and shelter. Fish farm stuff here too. OK, but not my idea of paradise exactly.
Only swam ashore with Flossie so didn’t explore but there is what looks like a restaurant towards the top of the inlet.
(August 2009)
We anchored on the west side just before the head of the inlet. The holding and shelter were good but it’s a bit of a scruffy place because of all the litter ashore and the fish farm stuff everywhere. Not many other yachts around and it would have been very peaceful except for the fish farm traffic buzzing you. Murky water.
‘Paradise’ Bay
N37°19.15 E027°28.00
We anchored and tied back. Good holding and shelter. Fish farm stuff here too. OK, but not my idea of paradise exactly.
Only swam ashore with Flossie so didn’t explore but there is what looks like a restaurant towards the top of the inlet.
Agathonisi, east bay, Greek island, Aegean
N37°27.48 E026°59.21
(August 2009)
Another lovely remote spot with gorgeous clear swimming water. Holding and shelter seemed good but there wasn’t any wind to speak of when we were there. We tied back to a rock. Nice!
(August 2009)
Another lovely remote spot with gorgeous clear swimming water. Holding and shelter seemed good but there wasn’t any wind to speak of when we were there. We tied back to a rock. Nice!
Pythagorian, Samos, Greek island, Aegean
N37°41.31 E026°56.79
(August 2009)
Busy anchorage. Good holding. Don’t anchor too far over (i.e. inline with the harbour entrance) as a ferry comes in that needs to drop its anchor to back onto the harbour wall and they move anyone who is in the way. Nice little town ashore, several small stores. You can also moor at the harbour front. Water and electricity available. I understand the charge is currently €5 a night.
(August 2009)
Busy anchorage. Good holding. Don’t anchor too far over (i.e. inline with the harbour entrance) as a ferry comes in that needs to drop its anchor to back onto the harbour wall and they move anyone who is in the way. Nice little town ashore, several small stores. You can also moor at the harbour front. Water and electricity available. I understand the charge is currently €5 a night.
Sarpdere Limani, west coast of Turkey
N38°11.06 E026°31.00
(August 2009)
On our way to Sarpdere we checked out Mersin Körfezi (seemed a bit bleak) and Zeytineli Körfezi (holding OK but the shelter didn’t seem brilliant).
In Sarpdere the holding was tricky and we had to make sure we were well in. It took a couple of attempts. There’s some flat rock patches on the bottom. The meltemi was doing its thing when we were there. Fierce gusts of the high land. What looks like a private holiday complex is at the head of the bay. They didn’t seem to mind cruisers leaving their rubbish in their big black bin on the beach. Nothing else there. The East Creek is quite small and the holding seemed iffy in that area. Nice spot for a swim though. Lovely clear water.
(August 2009)
On our way to Sarpdere we checked out Mersin Körfezi (seemed a bit bleak) and Zeytineli Körfezi (holding OK but the shelter didn’t seem brilliant).
In Sarpdere the holding was tricky and we had to make sure we were well in. It took a couple of attempts. There’s some flat rock patches on the bottom. The meltemi was doing its thing when we were there. Fierce gusts of the high land. What looks like a private holiday complex is at the head of the bay. They didn’t seem to mind cruisers leaving their rubbish in their big black bin on the beach. Nothing else there. The East Creek is quite small and the holding seemed iffy in that area. Nice spot for a swim though. Lovely clear water.
Abandoned marina, Khios, Greek island, Aegean
N38°23.20 E026°08.35
(August 2009)
We were alongside on the inside of the harbour wall. No electricity or water. Diesel from fuel station on the main road. Medium sized Eurospar 5 minutes walk from the marina. (Go out of the marina, turn left and it’s along the road on the right.)
CAUTION: On entering and exiting the marina stay close to the harbour wall to keep clear of the shoal patch that comes out from the shore.
(August 2009)
We were alongside on the inside of the harbour wall. No electricity or water. Diesel from fuel station on the main road. Medium sized Eurospar 5 minutes walk from the marina. (Go out of the marina, turn left and it’s along the road on the right.)
CAUTION: On entering and exiting the marina stay close to the harbour wall to keep clear of the shoal patch that comes out from the shore.
Karaada, island in Ildir Korfezi and Hoteleratan, West coast of Turkey
Karaada Island
N38°25.67 E026°20.17
(August 2009)
We were in the first inlet if you approach from the west. It’s a lovely remote spot, the holding is good and the swimming great but you can’t stay overnight. I’d nearly reached the ruin on the top of the hill when the Coastguard came and told Derek that it’s a grade 2 military zone and we had to leave. Quite a few tripper boats visited the anchorage when we were there.
Hoteleratan
N38°20.74 E026°19.14
We spent the night here after having to leave Karaada. It’s popular and very busy but there’s room for plenty and most visitors don’t stay the night. Presumably they return to the nearby marina. The holding seemed good but there wasn’t any wind to test it.
N38°25.67 E026°20.17
(August 2009)
We were in the first inlet if you approach from the west. It’s a lovely remote spot, the holding is good and the swimming great but you can’t stay overnight. I’d nearly reached the ruin on the top of the hill when the Coastguard came and told Derek that it’s a grade 2 military zone and we had to leave. Quite a few tripper boats visited the anchorage when we were there.
Hoteleratan
N38°20.74 E026°19.14
We spent the night here after having to leave Karaada. It’s popular and very busy but there’s room for plenty and most visitors don’t stay the night. Presumably they return to the nearby marina. The holding seemed good but there wasn’t any wind to test it.
Mandraki, Oinoussa, Greek Island, Aegean
N38°30.77 E026°13.02
(August 2009)
Anchored off the harbour wall. The holding and shelter were good. The water is lovely and clean and clear – nice swimming. You can moor at the harbour wall if you can get a space as it seems to be monopolised by big motor boats. There are water and electricity connections but they also seemed to be monopolised. There are a couple of small shops up the hill in the village. An enjoyable stop.
(August 2009)
Anchored off the harbour wall. The holding and shelter were good. The water is lovely and clean and clear – nice swimming. You can moor at the harbour wall if you can get a space as it seems to be monopolised by big motor boats. There are water and electricity connections but they also seemed to be monopolised. There are a couple of small shops up the hill in the village. An enjoyable stop.
Alibey (opposite Ayvalik, west coast of Turkey
N39°19.80 E026°39.31
(July 2009)
Good holding and protection but the locals charge TL30 a night for anchoring within the harbour. Most yachts anchor outside the harbour, off the restaurants, where you don’t incur the charge. Alibey is probably a charming little place but it was alive with tourists and the noise and hustle bustle was all a bit much after the quiet of the north. There are a couple of convenience stores and apparently there’s a ferry service to Ayvalik.
(July 2009)
Good holding and protection but the locals charge TL30 a night for anchoring within the harbour. Most yachts anchor outside the harbour, off the restaurants, where you don’t incur the charge. Alibey is probably a charming little place but it was alive with tourists and the noise and hustle bustle was all a bit much after the quiet of the north. There are a couple of convenience stores and apparently there’s a ferry service to Ayvalik.
Saturday, 11 July 2009
Bay at Camlik Point, south west coast of Bozcaada Island, Aegean
N39°49.19 E025°59.43
(July 2009)
Anchored overnight in NW of large bay. Didn’t go ashore but there didn’t seem to be much there but the beach. Some wash from traffic. Our pilot book said we might get moved on if the military objected to our presence but there wasn’t any sign of the military still being about.
(July 2009)
Anchored overnight in NW of large bay. Didn’t go ashore but there didn’t seem to be much there but the beach. Some wash from traffic. Our pilot book said we might get moved on if the military objected to our presence but there wasn’t any sign of the military still being about.
Anit Limanı (or Morto Bay), Dardanelles
N40°03.07 E026°12.72
(July 2009)
Anchored for a few hours in the NE of the bay near rough rock mole. The bottom is ribbon weed but it becomes sandy close in where there was still just enough depth for us. We landed near the restaurant and walked up the hill to see the huge symbolic gateway memorial and cemetery that commemorates the Turkish soldiers who fought and died in the Gallipoli campaign.
(July 2009)
Anchored for a few hours in the NE of the bay near rough rock mole. The bottom is ribbon weed but it becomes sandy close in where there was still just enough depth for us. We landed near the restaurant and walked up the hill to see the huge symbolic gateway memorial and cemetery that commemorates the Turkish soldiers who fought and died in the Gallipoli campaign.
Unfinished Harbour, Avşar Adası, Sea of Marmara
N40°32.21 E027°30.63
(June 2009)
Big empty harbour. We anchored but you could go alongside the concrete wall near to what looks like an unused ferry berth. There are just a few small fishing boats here. We didn’t really explore ashore but just went for a nice walk with Flossie in the surrounding scrubland. We’re told there is a small shop 20 minutes walk away and the bigger shops are a 45 minute walk. The holding was good and so was the shelter.
(June 2009)
Big empty harbour. We anchored but you could go alongside the concrete wall near to what looks like an unused ferry berth. There are just a few small fishing boats here. We didn’t really explore ashore but just went for a nice walk with Flossie in the surrounding scrubland. We’re told there is a small shop 20 minutes walk away and the bigger shops are a 45 minute walk. The holding was good and so was the shelter.
Saraylar (east bay), Marmara Adası, Sea of Marmara
N40°39.51 E027°40.19
(June 2009)
Holding seemed good but we didn’t have wind to really test it. The shelter was good, not much wash from traffic. We managed to get in the water for a swim here. There were only the harmless white jellyfish and no red/brown ones to be seen. You could land your dinghy at the concrete quay opposite the bay and walk along the road, lined with marble sculptures, to the village (10 mins) or dinghy across to the harbour. There is a Dia supermarket at the harbour. We would have enjoyed the village much more if it wasn’t for the gang of local lads who followed us relentlessly asking for money all the time. The older, unfinished and abandoned marble items are at an open air ‘museum’ (a small overgrown grass patch) just on the edge of the village. Just about every single local will point you to it.
(June 2009)
Holding seemed good but we didn’t have wind to really test it. The shelter was good, not much wash from traffic. We managed to get in the water for a swim here. There were only the harmless white jellyfish and no red/brown ones to be seen. You could land your dinghy at the concrete quay opposite the bay and walk along the road, lined with marble sculptures, to the village (10 mins) or dinghy across to the harbour. There is a Dia supermarket at the harbour. We would have enjoyed the village much more if it wasn’t for the gang of local lads who followed us relentlessly asking for money all the time. The older, unfinished and abandoned marble items are at an open air ‘museum’ (a small overgrown grass patch) just on the edge of the village. Just about every single local will point you to it.
Topağaç, Marmara Adası, Sea of Marmara
N40°36.19 E027°39.91
(June 2009)
Anchored in the harbour. Good holding and shelter. Small village with little grocery shops. Friendly locals. We refilled our diesel cans at the fuel station in the corner, across the road from the root of the east breakwater.
(June 2009)
Anchored in the harbour. Good holding and shelter. Small village with little grocery shops. Friendly locals. We refilled our diesel cans at the fuel station in the corner, across the road from the root of the east breakwater.
Bandırma, Sea of Marmara
N40°21.26 E027°58.05
(June 2009)
We were on the inside end of the west wall at the east basin. We were alongside but think it would be better to med moor as the wash from the high speed ferry (about twice a day) is horrendous. The local fishermen were really friendly and accommodating. They gave us a big punnet of lovely fat mussels – delicious! On our first night we had two lots of visitors. The first were a group of teenagers. One of them got onboard and sat in the cockpit but he soon scarpered when Derek went out growling and shouting. The second were a pair of black cats scrapping. In the morning the cockpit was covered in clumps of black fur, cat pooh and cat spray. Two more reasons to med moor rather than go alongside. A large work boat moors on the outside end of the west wall and although the crew are quite noisy beer drinking, singers they are friendly and hospitable.
The bustling town is just across the road from the harbour. There is a BIM on the first street and I saw a Gross supermarket in the town somewhere but I can’t recall how to get to it. Next door to the harbour is a park and sitting in its square watching the world go by was very pleasant.
If you come out of the harbour, turn right and carry on past the Harbour Master’s Offices there is a terminus for the shuttle bus between town and the otogar. We got the shuttle bus (TL1.25, journey time about 10 mins) to the otogar where we got a bus to Erdek (TL3, journey time about 40 mins). Opposite the otogar is a medium sized Carrefore. There is a free shoppers bus from Carrefore to town.
We checked in at Bandırma. Our first call was to the Harbour Master’s Office on the front. We were shown into the offices of the boss guy who was extremely helpful. He called the Chamber of Shipping and took us over the road to see them (their office is above a shop on a corner, diagonally across from the HM Office). In the five years that the boss in the Harbour Masters office has been there he has only seen three yachts check in at Bandirma so it was no surprise that the Chamber of Shipping didn’t have any Transit Logs. They said they would get Istanbul to send them some overnight and that we should come back tomorrow.
The supply of Transit Logs arrived the next day as promised. We paid 90.53 Lira for the Transit Log – that was made up of 46.53 TL (30 dollars) plus 44TL for yachts up to 49 GRT. For 60TL the Chamber of Shipping boss supplied a employee who drove us around to Health Control, Harbour Master (who tried to be difficult and apparently wanted more money off us but the boss guy we’d originally seen there was able to nip that in the bud), Port Police, Customs and back to the Harbour Master. Now that we know that the various offices are all within walking distance of each other we would say it would be possible to trek around them ourselves although we felt the 60TL for taxi, interpreter, negotiator with the grumpy guy in the Harbour Master’s office and guide was money well spent. We also paid the usual fee for our visa stamps.
I have contact details for the boss at the Chamber of Shipping (who speaks good English) if anyone wants them.
(June 2009)
We were on the inside end of the west wall at the east basin. We were alongside but think it would be better to med moor as the wash from the high speed ferry (about twice a day) is horrendous. The local fishermen were really friendly and accommodating. They gave us a big punnet of lovely fat mussels – delicious! On our first night we had two lots of visitors. The first were a group of teenagers. One of them got onboard and sat in the cockpit but he soon scarpered when Derek went out growling and shouting. The second were a pair of black cats scrapping. In the morning the cockpit was covered in clumps of black fur, cat pooh and cat spray. Two more reasons to med moor rather than go alongside. A large work boat moors on the outside end of the west wall and although the crew are quite noisy beer drinking, singers they are friendly and hospitable.
The bustling town is just across the road from the harbour. There is a BIM on the first street and I saw a Gross supermarket in the town somewhere but I can’t recall how to get to it. Next door to the harbour is a park and sitting in its square watching the world go by was very pleasant.
If you come out of the harbour, turn right and carry on past the Harbour Master’s Offices there is a terminus for the shuttle bus between town and the otogar. We got the shuttle bus (TL1.25, journey time about 10 mins) to the otogar where we got a bus to Erdek (TL3, journey time about 40 mins). Opposite the otogar is a medium sized Carrefore. There is a free shoppers bus from Carrefore to town.
We checked in at Bandırma. Our first call was to the Harbour Master’s Office on the front. We were shown into the offices of the boss guy who was extremely helpful. He called the Chamber of Shipping and took us over the road to see them (their office is above a shop on a corner, diagonally across from the HM Office). In the five years that the boss in the Harbour Masters office has been there he has only seen three yachts check in at Bandirma so it was no surprise that the Chamber of Shipping didn’t have any Transit Logs. They said they would get Istanbul to send them some overnight and that we should come back tomorrow.
The supply of Transit Logs arrived the next day as promised. We paid 90.53 Lira for the Transit Log – that was made up of 46.53 TL (30 dollars) plus 44TL for yachts up to 49 GRT. For 60TL the Chamber of Shipping boss supplied a employee who drove us around to Health Control, Harbour Master (who tried to be difficult and apparently wanted more money off us but the boss guy we’d originally seen there was able to nip that in the bud), Port Police, Customs and back to the Harbour Master. Now that we know that the various offices are all within walking distance of each other we would say it would be possible to trek around them ourselves although we felt the 60TL for taxi, interpreter, negotiator with the grumpy guy in the Harbour Master’s office and guide was money well spent. We also paid the usual fee for our visa stamps.
I have contact details for the boss at the Chamber of Shipping (who speaks good English) if anyone wants them.
Kalem Limanı, Paşalımanı Adası, Sea of Marmara
N40°27.80 E027°39.52
(June 2009)
This was our refuge on the night that we had to leave Erdek because of a southerly blow. It was delightfully smooth and peaceful. The holding was good. There’s a hamlet ashore but we didn’t visit it as we just snatched an hour of sleep before leaving for Bandırma at first light.
(June 2009)
This was our refuge on the night that we had to leave Erdek because of a southerly blow. It was delightfully smooth and peaceful. The holding was good. There’s a hamlet ashore but we didn’t visit it as we just snatched an hour of sleep before leaving for Bandırma at first light.
Turan Köy (Gundogurusu Limanı), Kapıdağ, Sea of Marmara
N40°30.47 E027°47.39
(June 2009)
The sandy bays on the north coast of the Kapıdağ peninsula look inviting but we didn’t expect the prevailing wind to allow us to stop off at any of them. An unusual southerly wind allowed us to spend the night at Turan Köy. The holding was good but we had a rolly time probably caused in part by a fishing boat that was working in the bay all night. Café ashore.
(June 2009)
The sandy bays on the north coast of the Kapıdağ peninsula look inviting but we didn’t expect the prevailing wind to allow us to stop off at any of them. An unusual southerly wind allowed us to spend the night at Turan Köy. The holding was good but we had a rolly time probably caused in part by a fishing boat that was working in the bay all night. Café ashore.
Sunday, 21 June 2009
Sozopol, Nessebar and Varna
We only visited these harbours by bus so our cruising information for them is very limited.
Sozopol. We visited the old town so we only glimpsed the pontoon berths from across the harbour. Other cruisers we met in Bourgas told us they were quoted 25 Euro a night at Sozopol for their 13 metre yacht.
Nessebar. There is a brand new long pontoon at the old town. The posh, glass fronted office was closed so we weren’t able to find out anything about charges or services.
Varna. We walked from the town, through the lovely park and down the dry and dusty jetty to the Yacht Club. For a 12 metre yacht the charges are 11 Euro a night however it’s busy and the Yacht Club guy was very reluctant to say that he would have room for us to visit. He said it may be possible to visit for a couple of days but not for a week and we got the impression we would be rafted up if we did go there. We had heard there were good ships chandlers at Varna but we couldn’t find them. The two small ones near the Yacht Club had limited stock and nothing that was useful to us.
Sozopol. We visited the old town so we only glimpsed the pontoon berths from across the harbour. Other cruisers we met in Bourgas told us they were quoted 25 Euro a night at Sozopol for their 13 metre yacht.
Nessebar. There is a brand new long pontoon at the old town. The posh, glass fronted office was closed so we weren’t able to find out anything about charges or services.
Varna. We walked from the town, through the lovely park and down the dry and dusty jetty to the Yacht Club. For a 12 metre yacht the charges are 11 Euro a night however it’s busy and the Yacht Club guy was very reluctant to say that he would have room for us to visit. He said it may be possible to visit for a couple of days but not for a week and we got the impression we would be rafted up if we did go there. We had heard there were good ships chandlers at Varna but we couldn’t find them. The two small ones near the Yacht Club had limited stock and nothing that was useful to us.
Monday, 8 June 2009
Bourgas, Bulgaria
N42°28.99 E027°28.94
(June 2009)
We called Port Bourgas on ch 16 an hour before we arrived and were advised by the friendly traffic control to head for berth 6 in the central harbour to check in. To get there head for the red and white lighthouse on the end of the breakwater (Bourgas Yacht Club visitors moorings are inside the end of this breakwater), then head towards the building with the clock tower (it’s the train station) in the middle of the basin. The traffic control guy gave us directions on the radio and an official was waiting for us at the quay. (There is actually a number 6 on the electronic chart.) Two other officials arrived after 5 minutes; they looked at our passports, asked for two copies of a crew list with the boat’s stamp on them (plus a statement on the back of one to say we didn’t have any stowaways onboard) and a copy of our SSR document. We showed them Flossie’s passport with her rabies vaccination details but they were only really interested in whether she was a good sailor and in taking her photo on their mobile phone. This all took about 10 minutes and then we went back to the yacht club moorings. We were told to give them half an hour to complete their formalities back at the office before going in to town.
The yacht club moorings are bow/stern to with yellow pick up buoys on a hefty rope, with a loop through which you put your own rope. We were on the north wall just below the new club building. We would recommend to anyone berthing here that the cabin where they sleep should be away from the wall because the design of the quay means there’s a lot of slapping and splashing noise. Also make sure you’re pulled well off the wall. There’s water but we’re not sure about electric – a local had an electric cable going to his boat but there’s no sign of anything for visitors to plug in to. The club seems to be very laid back and quiet. There’s one ‘bathroom’ with three showers (no curtains) in the clubhouse. Fees 8 Euro a night/50 Euro for 10 days.
The yacht club is in the dockyard and it’s a dry and dusty 15-minute walk to the gate out of the yard. At the gate you must pass through the passport control building and show your passports to the officials, if they ask, and the same on the way back in.
The bus station is just outside the dockyard gate on the left before the train station. We got the bus to Nessebar (5 Leva each way, takes about 1 hour, bus times are regular), Sozopol (4 Leva each way, takes under an hour, bus times regular) and Varna (12 Leva each way, takes about 2 hours, bus times regular)..
Bourgas town: for the shopping area turn right after the bus station and you’re heading for the main pedestrianised street (Aleksandrovska). For Tourist Information: go along Aleksandrovska street, past the municipality building (square building with big columns in the entrance) and about two turnings on the left you’ll see the TI flags outside their building. For the Europa supermarket and the covered market in front of it: from Aleksandrovska street, turn left at the municipality building, cross the main road and keep walking. Take the second right after the Bosch shop and it’s down there on the left.
We had to take our passports and another copy of the crew list to the Passport Control and Immigration office half an hour before we wanted to check out. A Customs guy came to collect the crew list and to get us to complete and stamp another form (stating we didn’t have any cargo).
(June 2009)
We called Port Bourgas on ch 16 an hour before we arrived and were advised by the friendly traffic control to head for berth 6 in the central harbour to check in. To get there head for the red and white lighthouse on the end of the breakwater (Bourgas Yacht Club visitors moorings are inside the end of this breakwater), then head towards the building with the clock tower (it’s the train station) in the middle of the basin. The traffic control guy gave us directions on the radio and an official was waiting for us at the quay. (There is actually a number 6 on the electronic chart.) Two other officials arrived after 5 minutes; they looked at our passports, asked for two copies of a crew list with the boat’s stamp on them (plus a statement on the back of one to say we didn’t have any stowaways onboard) and a copy of our SSR document. We showed them Flossie’s passport with her rabies vaccination details but they were only really interested in whether she was a good sailor and in taking her photo on their mobile phone. This all took about 10 minutes and then we went back to the yacht club moorings. We were told to give them half an hour to complete their formalities back at the office before going in to town.
The yacht club moorings are bow/stern to with yellow pick up buoys on a hefty rope, with a loop through which you put your own rope. We were on the north wall just below the new club building. We would recommend to anyone berthing here that the cabin where they sleep should be away from the wall because the design of the quay means there’s a lot of slapping and splashing noise. Also make sure you’re pulled well off the wall. There’s water but we’re not sure about electric – a local had an electric cable going to his boat but there’s no sign of anything for visitors to plug in to. The club seems to be very laid back and quiet. There’s one ‘bathroom’ with three showers (no curtains) in the clubhouse. Fees 8 Euro a night/50 Euro for 10 days.
The yacht club is in the dockyard and it’s a dry and dusty 15-minute walk to the gate out of the yard. At the gate you must pass through the passport control building and show your passports to the officials, if they ask, and the same on the way back in.
The bus station is just outside the dockyard gate on the left before the train station. We got the bus to Nessebar (5 Leva each way, takes about 1 hour, bus times are regular), Sozopol (4 Leva each way, takes under an hour, bus times regular) and Varna (12 Leva each way, takes about 2 hours, bus times regular)..
Bourgas town: for the shopping area turn right after the bus station and you’re heading for the main pedestrianised street (Aleksandrovska). For Tourist Information: go along Aleksandrovska street, past the municipality building (square building with big columns in the entrance) and about two turnings on the left you’ll see the TI flags outside their building. For the Europa supermarket and the covered market in front of it: from Aleksandrovska street, turn left at the municipality building, cross the main road and keep walking. Take the second right after the Bosch shop and it’s down there on the left.
We had to take our passports and another copy of the crew list to the Passport Control and Immigration office half an hour before we wanted to check out. A Customs guy came to collect the crew list and to get us to complete and stamp another form (stating we didn’t have any cargo).
Bulgarian border
(June 2009)
Just after we crossed the border into Bulgaria we were called by the Bulgarian Border Police on the VHF ch 16. They wanted to know where we were going, how many people on board and what ‘flag’ we were. There were two other yachts behind us and we heard them getting called as well. Shortly after that the fast patrol boat came towards us from the Bourgas direction. They called us on the radio, asked us the same questions as the Police at the border did and said they would like to come aboard to check our papers. In addition to the officials there were about a dozen people on the patrol boat all smartly decked out in shiny new wet weather gear. They looked like visitors to the Port Police that had been brought out on a jolly. The officials launched their RIB and three guys came onboard and sat in the cockpit whilst another stayed in the RIB with what also appeared to be a guest. There were a couple of guys wearing wet suits standing on the bow of the patrol boat that we assumed to be officials. The boarding party looked at our documents (scrutinised our passports with an eyeglass) and completed the usual sort of form. They were very polite and were keen for Derek to write something on the form in the space for comments. That was it; they went back to the patrol boat, turned around and headed back towards Bourgas with a friendly wave.
Just after we crossed the border into Bulgaria we were called by the Bulgarian Border Police on the VHF ch 16. They wanted to know where we were going, how many people on board and what ‘flag’ we were. There were two other yachts behind us and we heard them getting called as well. Shortly after that the fast patrol boat came towards us from the Bourgas direction. They called us on the radio, asked us the same questions as the Police at the border did and said they would like to come aboard to check our papers. In addition to the officials there were about a dozen people on the patrol boat all smartly decked out in shiny new wet weather gear. They looked like visitors to the Port Police that had been brought out on a jolly. The officials launched their RIB and three guys came onboard and sat in the cockpit whilst another stayed in the RIB with what also appeared to be a guest. There were a couple of guys wearing wet suits standing on the bow of the patrol boat that we assumed to be officials. The boarding party looked at our documents (scrutinised our passports with an eyeglass) and completed the usual sort of form. They were very polite and were keen for Derek to write something on the form in the space for comments. That was it; they went back to the patrol boat, turned around and headed back towards Bourgas with a friendly wave.
Igneada, Black Sea west coast, Turkey
N041°53.33 E028°01.29
(June 2009)
We anchored to the west of the harbour as we’d been told that we possibly wouldn’t be allowed in Igneada harbour once we’d checked out of Turkey. A Customs/Coastguard patrol boat is based in the harbour and they launched their RIB to come and check our documents. They said that although we were anchored in the correct place that they wouldn’t mind if we anchored in the harbour. It was a little bit rolly outside the harbour so we jumped at the chance to move inside. The holding was good both outside and inside the harbour. We had a peaceful night thanks to being allowed to be inside the harbour walls.
(June 2009)
We anchored to the west of the harbour as we’d been told that we possibly wouldn’t be allowed in Igneada harbour once we’d checked out of Turkey. A Customs/Coastguard patrol boat is based in the harbour and they launched their RIB to come and check our documents. They said that although we were anchored in the correct place that they wouldn’t mind if we anchored in the harbour. It was a little bit rolly outside the harbour so we jumped at the chance to move inside. The holding was good both outside and inside the harbour. We had a peaceful night thanks to being allowed to be inside the harbour walls.
Poyraz, Bosphorus, Turkey
N41°12.29 E029°07.80
(June 2009)
We were here on a Monday so didn’t experience the weekend music and thankfully had a peaceful night. Shelter was good – no wash from traffic in the Bosphorus. Good holding but had to deal with the dreaded angel hair weed again. Didn’t go ashore.
We were talking to a couple in Bourgas who moored to the quay here. A local tried to charge them TL30 for the privilege. They questioned what they were getting for their money (nothing!) and in the end the fee collector stated that the TL30 paid by their friends could be for both yachts.
(June 2009)
We were here on a Monday so didn’t experience the weekend music and thankfully had a peaceful night. Shelter was good – no wash from traffic in the Bosphorus. Good holding but had to deal with the dreaded angel hair weed again. Didn’t go ashore.
We were talking to a couple in Bourgas who moored to the quay here. A local tried to charge them TL30 for the privilege. They questioned what they were getting for their money (nothing!) and in the end the fee collector stated that the TL30 paid by their friends could be for both yachts.
Bosphorus, Turkey
(June 2009)
Refuelling at Kalamiş was a doddle - turn sharp to port immediately after the entrance, the fuel berth runs north south, it was well fendered and they passed us their ropes. (I’ve never been presented with a posy of flowers, picked from the fuel station garden, by an attendant before – how charming is that?!) Transiting the Bosphorus was much crazier than the Dardanelles. Running the gauntlet of the busy ferry crossing from the Golden Horn to Kadıköy was probably the hairiest bit. At one point we had 4.5 knots of tide against us here. We crossed over at Dolmabahce Palace to be on the Europe side where the current is less and even goes with you slightly at times. The ferries going up the European side come ridiculously close when overtaking. It took us 4hrs and 20mins to do the 19.5 miles to Poyraz but we didn’t hurry. As compensation there are plenty of lovely properties to see along the way.
A note on AIS:
The poor quality photo was supplied by the skipper. It was taken on our return transit of the Bosphorus and he says sometimes you can have information overload!
We were advised to maintain a listening watch when transiting the Bosphorus as follows:
South of the Golden Horn - Kadaköy traffic - ch 14
Bridge of Americas (i.e. north bridge) to Golden Horn – Kandilli traffic – ch 13
Poyraz south to Bridge of Americas – Kavacik traffic – ch 12
North of Poyraz – Turkceli – ch 11
Checking out of Turkey
(June 2009)
Our check out was a bit of a chore. Everyone told us something different and eventually, to get the job done, it took the combined effort of us, an agent at Haydarpasa container port (TL100, which we didn’t want to spend but there was no way in this world we could have done it without him) and the wonderful girl in the office at Pendik marina (she translated by phone). Nobody wanted to deal with us but with persuasion we eventually got stamped out by the Port Police and Customs at Haydarpasa, even though we should have had the Harbour Master’s stamp first. The Harbour Master at Tuzla didn’t want anything to do with us at all (neither did the HM at Karaköy, under any circumstances) but the marina Manager got on the phone, spoke to a guy and we had to get a taxi to the commercial docks at Tuzla and quote that guys name in order to get the Harbour Master’s stamp. Even then it was done begrudgingly. I wouldn’t be surprised if we weren’t caught in the middle of some internal politics between the Harbour Masters at Karaköy and Tuzla. Can you believe all that? And I’m making it sound easier than it was! Afterwards we spoke to Pendik Marina Manager who told us that they were currently in talks with the relevant authorities to arrange that the marina would be able to take your paperwork away and return it to you with the formalities completed. He estimated being able to provide that service in about another month. If what we were told is correct (that Kalamiş /Fenerbahçe already provide this formality clearing service) then, with hindsight, maybe we would have been better to have left Pendik marina after doing our sightseeing and spent one night at Kalamiş to let them deal with our paperwork***. Of course, this entire sorry tale was only relevant for us because we wanted to check out of Turkey to go to Bulgaria after the Bosphorus. And there was us imagining that we would just wander across Galata Bridge to Karaköy and get our stamps all in one building – bang, bang, bang - as simple as that. The point where it moved into the realms of the surreal was when the ‘Director’ of the Customs Office spotted us on our way out of the door, made us come and sit on his sofa and attempted to find out whether we knew his family who lived in Cambridge in the UK. I could understand what he was trying to ask but he didn’t seem to find it possible that we didn’t know his family in Cambridge. He didn’t speak any English, nor did our Agent, and he insisted on making our Agent ring the Pendik marina office girl to get her to translate. I explained to her what I’d already told the gentleman by sign language, that Cambridge was miles from Plymouth and that I’d never been there before and didn’t know his family. We managed to get away, as we still had to deal with Tuzla HM, but he would have preferred it if we’d stayed for çay and lunch.
***PS When we returned from Bulgaria, three weeks later no checking in/out service was yet available at Pendik Marina. Kalamiş/Fenerbahçe marina do not provide a service for yachties either. Ataköy Marina advised us not to even stop in Istanbul but to go somewhere else and check in!
Our check out was a bit of a chore. Everyone told us something different and eventually, to get the job done, it took the combined effort of us, an agent at Haydarpasa container port (TL100, which we didn’t want to spend but there was no way in this world we could have done it without him) and the wonderful girl in the office at Pendik marina (she translated by phone). Nobody wanted to deal with us but with persuasion we eventually got stamped out by the Port Police and Customs at Haydarpasa, even though we should have had the Harbour Master’s stamp first. The Harbour Master at Tuzla didn’t want anything to do with us at all (neither did the HM at Karaköy, under any circumstances) but the marina Manager got on the phone, spoke to a guy and we had to get a taxi to the commercial docks at Tuzla and quote that guys name in order to get the Harbour Master’s stamp. Even then it was done begrudgingly. I wouldn’t be surprised if we weren’t caught in the middle of some internal politics between the Harbour Masters at Karaköy and Tuzla. Can you believe all that? And I’m making it sound easier than it was! Afterwards we spoke to Pendik Marina Manager who told us that they were currently in talks with the relevant authorities to arrange that the marina would be able to take your paperwork away and return it to you with the formalities completed. He estimated being able to provide that service in about another month. If what we were told is correct (that Kalamiş /Fenerbahçe already provide this formality clearing service) then, with hindsight, maybe we would have been better to have left Pendik marina after doing our sightseeing and spent one night at Kalamiş to let them deal with our paperwork***. Of course, this entire sorry tale was only relevant for us because we wanted to check out of Turkey to go to Bulgaria after the Bosphorus. And there was us imagining that we would just wander across Galata Bridge to Karaköy and get our stamps all in one building – bang, bang, bang - as simple as that. The point where it moved into the realms of the surreal was when the ‘Director’ of the Customs Office spotted us on our way out of the door, made us come and sit on his sofa and attempted to find out whether we knew his family who lived in Cambridge in the UK. I could understand what he was trying to ask but he didn’t seem to find it possible that we didn’t know his family in Cambridge. He didn’t speak any English, nor did our Agent, and he insisted on making our Agent ring the Pendik marina office girl to get her to translate. I explained to her what I’d already told the gentleman by sign language, that Cambridge was miles from Plymouth and that I’d never been there before and didn’t know his family. We managed to get away, as we still had to deal with Tuzla HM, but he would have preferred it if we’d stayed for çay and lunch.
***PS When we returned from Bulgaria, three weeks later no checking in/out service was yet available at Pendik Marina. Kalamiş/Fenerbahçe marina do not provide a service for yachties either. Ataköy Marina advised us not to even stop in Istanbul but to go somewhere else and check in!
Pendik, Sea of Marmara, Turkey
N40°52.21 E023°14.22
(May 2009)
We headed for the bay in the north to anchor off the town. When we arrived we weren’t entirely surprised to find the bay filled with a massive marina that’s still being built. We decided to stay for a few days and do our Istanbul sight seeing from here. ***They quoted us TL230 for three nights inclusive of electric and water. They are finishing the amenities block as I type so, although we haven't had the use of it, it should be up and running imminently.
To get to Istanbul from here you have to get the dolmuş from the main road outside the marina to Kadıköy, then you get on the ferry to Eminönü and you're in old Istanbul (Golden Horn). It takes about an hour and 10 minutes in total. We haven't waited more than 5 mins for a dolmuş and the ferries are every 15 mins. We haven't found the journey a chore at all and we've travelled in rush hour too. Karaköy is just a walk over Galata Bridge from Eminönü but we went there to try and deal with our paperwork and were unsuccessful. We're told we can't do it on the Europe side because we're moored on the Asia side.
The dolmuş from Pendik to Kadıköy goes right past the door of West Marine (it's next door to a Migros and just up the road from a KoçTas/B&Q).
***P.S. When the marina is finished the prices will increase, no doubt. There was already talk of an extra charge for electricity being applied soon.
(May 2009)
We headed for the bay in the north to anchor off the town. When we arrived we weren’t entirely surprised to find the bay filled with a massive marina that’s still being built. We decided to stay for a few days and do our Istanbul sight seeing from here. ***They quoted us TL230 for three nights inclusive of electric and water. They are finishing the amenities block as I type so, although we haven't had the use of it, it should be up and running imminently.
To get to Istanbul from here you have to get the dolmuş from the main road outside the marina to Kadıköy, then you get on the ferry to Eminönü and you're in old Istanbul (Golden Horn). It takes about an hour and 10 minutes in total. We haven't waited more than 5 mins for a dolmuş and the ferries are every 15 mins. We haven't found the journey a chore at all and we've travelled in rush hour too. Karaköy is just a walk over Galata Bridge from Eminönü but we went there to try and deal with our paperwork and were unsuccessful. We're told we can't do it on the Europe side because we're moored on the Asia side.
The dolmuş from Pendik to Kadıköy goes right past the door of West Marine (it's next door to a Migros and just up the road from a KoçTas/B&Q).
***P.S. When the marina is finished the prices will increase, no doubt. There was already talk of an extra charge for electricity being applied soon.
Tuzla, Sea of Marmara, Turkey
N40°48.84 E029°17.88
(May 2009)
Our edition of the pilot book says anchor off the town in the north of the bay and from the brief description we expected a large, bare anchorage but we were wrong. The harbour area in front of the town has a large wall protecting it from the south. On that wall is a big ship that doesn’t look like it moves anymore. It’s some sort of training facility. Inside the wall are several local moorings but there is still room to anchor. The holding was good. The town is good. It seemed a bit more touristy than we’ve been used to of late but it was the weekend, so there were plenty of people around. We landed at a grubby little quay on the front (lots of fishing stuff piled up). With your backs to the sea you turn right for the town. Once you’ve walked the quaint street that runs parallel with the front, turn left off of it for the main town and supermarkets. Market day is Sunday. There’s a field of tall grass off the busy road on the very front and the market is behind that field. There’s a ferry service that seems to go to the Princes Islands. We liked Tuzla and would go back. The only disadvantage is that occasionally there was a sewage pong.
(May 2009)
Our edition of the pilot book says anchor off the town in the north of the bay and from the brief description we expected a large, bare anchorage but we were wrong. The harbour area in front of the town has a large wall protecting it from the south. On that wall is a big ship that doesn’t look like it moves anymore. It’s some sort of training facility. Inside the wall are several local moorings but there is still room to anchor. The holding was good. The town is good. It seemed a bit more touristy than we’ve been used to of late but it was the weekend, so there were plenty of people around. We landed at a grubby little quay on the front (lots of fishing stuff piled up). With your backs to the sea you turn right for the town. Once you’ve walked the quaint street that runs parallel with the front, turn left off of it for the main town and supermarkets. Market day is Sunday. There’s a field of tall grass off the busy road on the very front and the market is behind that field. There’s a ferry service that seems to go to the Princes Islands. We liked Tuzla and would go back. The only disadvantage is that occasionally there was a sewage pong.
Yalova, Sea of Marmara, Turkey
(N40°39.7 E29°14.7)
(May 2009)
We had been told that there were pontoons at Yalova and we were hoping to get the fast ferry from there to Istanbul. The situation must have changed because we scouted about looking for the pontoons and the only likely thing we came across was an entrance that was roped off. There were big signs in Turkish that started with the word ‘caution’ in huge letters. Underneath the rest of the Turkish writing it said ‘Setur Marinas’. Our guess is that whatever was there has been taken over by Setur and is being developed and that it’s not habitable in the meantime.
(May 2009)
We had been told that there were pontoons at Yalova and we were hoping to get the fast ferry from there to Istanbul. The situation must have changed because we scouted about looking for the pontoons and the only likely thing we came across was an entrance that was roped off. There were big signs in Turkish that started with the word ‘caution’ in huge letters. Underneath the rest of the Turkish writing it said ‘Setur Marinas’. Our guess is that whatever was there has been taken over by Setur and is being developed and that it’s not habitable in the meantime.
Gemlik, Sea of Marmara, Turkey
N40°25.73 E029°09.21
(May 2009)
We anchored south of the concrete jetty in between the sea fountains! The fountains are concrete moles in the sea just off the front. We wondered what they were at first and then we hoped they didn’t get switched on. They’re big and look like they can shift a lot of water. They did actually come on once it got dark and they were very pretty (they change colour). Thankfully the water jet wasn’t too high so we didn’t get sprayed. The holding has been great – had some gusts to test it. The town is very Turkish (not many tourists up here), alive with hustle bustle and full of every sort of shop you need. We landed our dinghy at the root of the jetty, on the south side, at the only bit low enough to climb ashore. The jetty is fenced off so we assume there are restrictions on mooring yachts to it. The dinghy spot is outside the fencing and the kindly Port Policeman said ‘no problem’ when we asked whether it was OK to land there.
(May 2009)
We anchored south of the concrete jetty in between the sea fountains! The fountains are concrete moles in the sea just off the front. We wondered what they were at first and then we hoped they didn’t get switched on. They’re big and look like they can shift a lot of water. They did actually come on once it got dark and they were very pretty (they change colour). Thankfully the water jet wasn’t too high so we didn’t get sprayed. The holding has been great – had some gusts to test it. The town is very Turkish (not many tourists up here), alive with hustle bustle and full of every sort of shop you need. We landed our dinghy at the root of the jetty, on the south side, at the only bit low enough to climb ashore. The jetty is fenced off so we assume there are restrictions on mooring yachts to it. The dinghy spot is outside the fencing and the kindly Port Policeman said ‘no problem’ when we asked whether it was OK to land there.
Narlı, Sea of Marmara, Turkey
N40°28.68 E029°02.25
(May 2009)
As per the plan we were away at 6am to make it to Yalova before the wind got up. There didn’t seem to be much wind until we got around the headland (Boz Br) and then wallop! With the tide and the headwind we were struggling to make any reasonable headway and were down to 2.6 knots at times. Derek made the wonderful decision to turn around, which isn’t something we’ve done very often. So we flew back around the corner to Narlı. We anchored just up from the village. The depths for anchoring were a bit deeper than expected (around 16m) but we scouted about until we found the shallowest spot possible (7m). Good holding in the blow. The village looked hospitable but we had a bit of a rest and then carried on up to Gemlik.
(May 2009)
As per the plan we were away at 6am to make it to Yalova before the wind got up. There didn’t seem to be much wind until we got around the headland (Boz Br) and then wallop! With the tide and the headwind we were struggling to make any reasonable headway and were down to 2.6 knots at times. Derek made the wonderful decision to turn around, which isn’t something we’ve done very often. So we flew back around the corner to Narlı. We anchored just up from the village. The depths for anchoring were a bit deeper than expected (around 16m) but we scouted about until we found the shallowest spot possible (7m). Good holding in the blow. The village looked hospitable but we had a bit of a rest and then carried on up to Gemlik.
Armutlu, Sea of Marmara, Turkey
N40°30.50 E028°49.69
(May 2009)
Open anchorage, holding seemed OK but no wind to test it. Rolly night though. We didn’t go ashore there but we could see masses of high-rise buildings and it looked like a busy place.
(May 2009)
Open anchorage, holding seemed OK but no wind to test it. Rolly night though. We didn’t go ashore there but we could see masses of high-rise buildings and it looked like a busy place.
Balıklı, Paşalımanı Adası, Sea of Marmara, Turkey
N40°27.66 E027°37.43
(May 2009)
Anchored at the little hamlet for the night. Nice and quiet after hot and busy Erdek. The holding seemed OK but there wasn’t any wind to test it. Didn’t go ashore.
(May 2009)
Anchored at the little hamlet for the night. Nice and quiet after hot and busy Erdek. The holding seemed OK but there wasn’t any wind to test it. Didn’t go ashore.
Erdek, Sea of Marmara, Turkey
N40°23.75 E027°47.42
(May 2009)
Med moored to the quay wall. The holding was good. No charge (but see June entry below). AC and water but only a couple of electric points work and the locals tend to monopolise them. The fuel station by the ferry berth doesn’t sell diesel but we got diesel from a ‘Total’ mini tanker. They seem to be around a lot refilling stuff at the ferry jetty. The town was great; we really liked it. There’s an abundance of shops and several supermarkets (I liked “Gross” supermarket – turn left after the Sok on the front and it’s down that road on the right).
(June 2009)
Not the place to be in a southerly wind. We were woken up at 2am. Although the wind was only about 15 knots there was pandemonium in the harbour. The sea was washing over the quay and we were snatching and bouncing up and down. The fishing boats had all taken off from the quay and were steaming around like crazed maniacs. The police and the harbour master both arrived. They didn’t tell us to leave but just wanted to be sure our anchor was in well. It was, but it was so lively that we didn’t want to risk getting a line snapped, a cleat pulled out or getting hit by some other boat that was out of control. We left. It took us a couple of hours to get to the calm of Kalem Limanı, Paşalımanı Adası.
(May 2009)
Med moored to the quay wall. The holding was good. No charge (but see June entry below). AC and water but only a couple of electric points work and the locals tend to monopolise them. The fuel station by the ferry berth doesn’t sell diesel but we got diesel from a ‘Total’ mini tanker. They seem to be around a lot refilling stuff at the ferry jetty. The town was great; we really liked it. There’s an abundance of shops and several supermarkets (I liked “Gross” supermarket – turn left after the Sok on the front and it’s down that road on the right).
(June 2009)
Not the place to be in a southerly wind. We were woken up at 2am. Although the wind was only about 15 knots there was pandemonium in the harbour. The sea was washing over the quay and we were snatching and bouncing up and down. The fishing boats had all taken off from the quay and were steaming around like crazed maniacs. The police and the harbour master both arrived. They didn’t tell us to leave but just wanted to be sure our anchor was in well. It was, but it was so lively that we didn’t want to risk getting a line snapped, a cleat pulled out or getting hit by some other boat that was out of control. We left. It took us a couple of hours to get to the calm of Kalem Limanı, Paşalımanı Adası.
Karabiga, Sea of Marmara, Turkey
N40°24.03 E027°18.33
(May 2009)
We anchored south of the ferry pier. Since our edition of the pilot book there is a new stone breakwater to the south that encloses the anchorage a bit. The holding was OK but it was a calm night so it wasn’t a good test. We had that dreadful angel hair weed to contend with again. We landed in the fishing harbour. There is a tap on the front street that has a cup attached to it so presumably it’s drinking water and there is a fuel station just outside the town to the south. Karabiga didn’t live up to our expectations for some reason. There’s less there than you expect although there are several small shops. Derek wasn’t that enamoured with the protection in the anchorage either
(May 2009)
We anchored south of the ferry pier. Since our edition of the pilot book there is a new stone breakwater to the south that encloses the anchorage a bit. The holding was OK but it was a calm night so it wasn’t a good test. We had that dreadful angel hair weed to contend with again. We landed in the fishing harbour. There is a tap on the front street that has a cup attached to it so presumably it’s drinking water and there is a fuel station just outside the town to the south. Karabiga didn’t live up to our expectations for some reason. There’s less there than you expect although there are several small shops. Derek wasn’t that enamoured with the protection in the anchorage either
Kemer, Sea of Marmara, Turkey
N40°25.43 E027°03.90
(May 2009)
When approaching the north anchorage treat the large mooring buoy as a west cardinal because of the sand bar extending about 100 metres from the shore. We anchored north of the little harbour where the holding was OK once through the weed. The weed is devilish stuff: it’s like angel hair and is a bugger to clear off the anchor chain. Our edition of the pilot book says you can hang off the north breakwater in the harbour but it’s too shallow there now. We also tried south of the harbour where the holding was good but the shelter was better in the north. We landed the dinghy at a tiny home made jetty in the harbour. Usual wheelie skip bins in the village. The village is rather basic but we still enjoyed our stop there. There is a small shop for basics and a bakery. We had a pleasant walk up the hill from the anchorage to the other side of the headland past a small Roman ruin (a wash house?).
(May 2009)
When approaching the north anchorage treat the large mooring buoy as a west cardinal because of the sand bar extending about 100 metres from the shore. We anchored north of the little harbour where the holding was OK once through the weed. The weed is devilish stuff: it’s like angel hair and is a bugger to clear off the anchor chain. Our edition of the pilot book says you can hang off the north breakwater in the harbour but it’s too shallow there now. We also tried south of the harbour where the holding was good but the shelter was better in the north. We landed the dinghy at a tiny home made jetty in the harbour. Usual wheelie skip bins in the village. The village is rather basic but we still enjoyed our stop there. There is a small shop for basics and a bakery. We had a pleasant walk up the hill from the anchorage to the other side of the headland past a small Roman ruin (a wash house?).
Dardanelles
(May 2009)
We got to the beginning of the Dardanelles at about 5pm on a calm evening. At times we got some assistance from the sails but really it was all engine work. We’re not complaining though as we both agreed that we wouldn’t like to have had wind to contend with as well as the tidal stream. In the approach from the south we had up to a knot of tide against us from at least Bozcaada Island. We kept to the low powered yacht route in the Dardanelles and even so we had about 2.5 knots against us in the entrance and at any headlands, narrows or bends. In between it went down to 0.5 to 1 knot and very occasionally, when we were able to follow the edge of a bay, we had up to half a knot with us.
We got to the beginning of the Dardanelles at about 5pm on a calm evening. At times we got some assistance from the sails but really it was all engine work. We’re not complaining though as we both agreed that we wouldn’t like to have had wind to contend with as well as the tidal stream. In the approach from the south we had up to a knot of tide against us from at least Bozcaada Island. We kept to the low powered yacht route in the Dardanelles and even so we had about 2.5 knots against us in the entrance and at any headlands, narrows or bends. In between it went down to 0.5 to 1 knot and very occasionally, when we were able to follow the edge of a bay, we had up to half a knot with us.
Canakkale, Dardanelles
Sarisiglar Limani Canakkale, Dardanelles
N40°07.73 E026°24.15
(May 2009)
We got as far as we could through the Dardanelles with daylight then anchored, with the intention of carrying on at first light. It took a couple of attempts to get the anchor to get a good hold, as the bottom was weedy. There was slight rolling at slack water and some wash during the night but we’ve definitely had worse nights because of traffic wash when we’ve been anchored at busy islands.
Outside the harbour entrance, Canakkale
N40°09.29 E026°24.38
(July 2009)
Holding good. Wash not too bad. We landed the dinghy at the pontoons but there is a gate that looks like it gets padlocked at night. Just outside the yacht quay is a Trojan Horse and some model displays of Troy. Cut through the park, right along the main road and there’s a medium sized Carrefore up one of the left turnings.
N40°07.73 E026°24.15
(May 2009)
We got as far as we could through the Dardanelles with daylight then anchored, with the intention of carrying on at first light. It took a couple of attempts to get the anchor to get a good hold, as the bottom was weedy. There was slight rolling at slack water and some wash during the night but we’ve definitely had worse nights because of traffic wash when we’ve been anchored at busy islands.
Outside the harbour entrance, Canakkale
N40°09.29 E026°24.38
(July 2009)
Holding good. Wash not too bad. We landed the dinghy at the pontoons but there is a gate that looks like it gets padlocked at night. Just outside the yacht quay is a Trojan Horse and some model displays of Troy. Cut through the park, right along the main road and there’s a medium sized Carrefore up one of the left turnings.
Sivrice, west coast of Turkey
N39°28.13 E026°12.71
(May 2009)
We encountered up to half a knot of tidal stream against us on the trip to Sivrice.
Anchored off the hamlet in the west of the bay beside the little fishing harbour wall (not mentioned in our edition of the pilot book). The holding was good on slightly muddy sand. Bins on the beach. We didn’t visit the little hamlet but it looked appealing in a rural way. There were tables and chairs under sunshade umbrellas so it looked like you could get refreshments there. This morning’s view was of a guy milking his cow!
(July 2009)
We went ashore this time. There are lots of little restaurants and a couple of small shops. A friendly place with Turkish holidaymakers. Nice swimming, lovely clear water.
(May 2009)
We encountered up to half a knot of tidal stream against us on the trip to Sivrice.
Anchored off the hamlet in the west of the bay beside the little fishing harbour wall (not mentioned in our edition of the pilot book). The holding was good on slightly muddy sand. Bins on the beach. We didn’t visit the little hamlet but it looked appealing in a rural way. There were tables and chairs under sunshade umbrellas so it looked like you could get refreshments there. This morning’s view was of a guy milking his cow!
(July 2009)
We went ashore this time. There are lots of little restaurants and a couple of small shops. A friendly place with Turkish holidaymakers. Nice swimming, lovely clear water.
Poroselene (Gümüş Köyü), west coast of Turkey
N39°23.07 E026°35.84
(May 2009)
A remote and peaceful bay. We were expecting uncertain holding but we picked a sandy patch and the anchor dug in really well. We arrived at about 4pm just as the afternoon wind was getting going but the shelter was fine – no swell or chop. Our night here was comfortable. Just something to watch out for is the nets that the fishermen were laying in several places around the bay. They are only marked by their small multi-coloured floats.
(July 2009)
A good return visit. We enjoyed walking with Flossie ashore and snorkelling on both sides of the stony causeway.
(May 2009)
A remote and peaceful bay. We were expecting uncertain holding but we picked a sandy patch and the anchor dug in really well. We arrived at about 4pm just as the afternoon wind was getting going but the shelter was fine – no swell or chop. Our night here was comfortable. Just something to watch out for is the nets that the fishermen were laying in several places around the bay. They are only marked by their small multi-coloured floats.
(July 2009)
A good return visit. We enjoyed walking with Flossie ashore and snorkelling on both sides of the stony causeway.
Candarli, west coast of Turkey
N38°56.17 E026°56.26
(May 2009)
We liked it here and would definitely go back. The holding is fabulous, gloopy, black mud. It was blowing a NE force 7 when we were there and we didn’t budge. No chop built up with the wind from the north so we were comfy and didn’t have any sleepless nights. We anchored in the east of the bay for the best shelter when the wind was strongest and in the west for easy access to the town. There is a fuel station on the road that runs along the front (more or less in the middle of the bay). The town is great. I suppose they must have their fair share of tourists in the high season but it had the atmosphere of a real town for real people going about their business. There were four supermarkets (I only went in three!) – Bim, Şok, Tansaş and Dia – and a little covered square in the middle of town for fresh fruit and veg. We landed our dinghy at a tiny wooden jetty just to the left of the Vestel paint shop. Çandarlı
seems to have an obsession with bins (rather that way than the other) and there were wheelie skips everywhere. We walked to the castle and around to look at the harbour on the west side. Very pleasant.
(July 2009)
Some extra stuff we discovered on returning to Çandarlı –
Market day is Friday (turn right at Şok and you can’t miss the market area up there on the right).
There is also a decent supermarket behind the market ground.
The bus station is on the road behind the fuel station.
There is a purpose built area in the park (on the right past the Mini Tansaş) to fill your containers with fresh water.
Bergama (Pergamon)
The dolmuş from Çandarlı to Bergama (Pergamon) takes about 45 minutes (regular service, cost TL4). From the bus station we got a taxi that took us to all three sites for TL50 inclusive of waiting time. We had plenty of time to see what we wanted and weren’t hurried at all. Entrance changes per person were TL20 at the acropolis, TL5 at the Red Basilica and TL15 at Asclepion.
(May 2009)
We liked it here and would definitely go back. The holding is fabulous, gloopy, black mud. It was blowing a NE force 7 when we were there and we didn’t budge. No chop built up with the wind from the north so we were comfy and didn’t have any sleepless nights. We anchored in the east of the bay for the best shelter when the wind was strongest and in the west for easy access to the town. There is a fuel station on the road that runs along the front (more or less in the middle of the bay). The town is great. I suppose they must have their fair share of tourists in the high season but it had the atmosphere of a real town for real people going about their business. There were four supermarkets (I only went in three!) – Bim, Şok, Tansaş and Dia – and a little covered square in the middle of town for fresh fruit and veg. We landed our dinghy at a tiny wooden jetty just to the left of the Vestel paint shop. Çandarlı
seems to have an obsession with bins (rather that way than the other) and there were wheelie skips everywhere. We walked to the castle and around to look at the harbour on the west side. Very pleasant.
(July 2009)
Some extra stuff we discovered on returning to Çandarlı –
Market day is Friday (turn right at Şok and you can’t miss the market area up there on the right).
There is also a decent supermarket behind the market ground.
The bus station is on the road behind the fuel station.
There is a purpose built area in the park (on the right past the Mini Tansaş) to fill your containers with fresh water.
Bergama (Pergamon)
The dolmuş from Çandarlı to Bergama (Pergamon) takes about 45 minutes (regular service, cost TL4). From the bus station we got a taxi that took us to all three sites for TL50 inclusive of waiting time. We had plenty of time to see what we wanted and weren’t hurried at all. Entrance changes per person were TL20 at the acropolis, TL5 at the Red Basilica and TL15 at Asclepion.
Eskiföça, west coast of Turkey
N38°39.92 E26°44.88
(May 2009)
We were here for a couple of nights. I don’t know if the more up to date edition of the pilot book refers to it but they were pile driving in the anchorage. Perhaps it’s going to be a marina. We had to anchor more in the middle of the head of the bay to avoid the work. That meant we were anchored in 15m, which is deeper than we prefer. The weather was calm when we were there so it wasn’t a problem but the protection seemed fine anyway. It might have been a bit shallower ahead of the works. The town is very nice (at least it seemed like heaven after too many remote anchorages). You can land at the quay; there is a little Şok supermarket right there and also a mini Tansaş around at Küçüdeniz Limani (there are Tansaş signposts in the town). We also saw a garage on the edge of town. The town was alive with young men as it’s a military college/training area and it was the weekend but they were all very well behaved.
(July 2009)
N38°40.61 E026°44.79
Anchored on the north side of the south harbour. Our guide says that the holding is mediocre but we found it to be good. It was blowing quite hard when we were there too. It was windier in the anchorage than it was out to sea.
(May 2009)
We were here for a couple of nights. I don’t know if the more up to date edition of the pilot book refers to it but they were pile driving in the anchorage. Perhaps it’s going to be a marina. We had to anchor more in the middle of the head of the bay to avoid the work. That meant we were anchored in 15m, which is deeper than we prefer. The weather was calm when we were there so it wasn’t a problem but the protection seemed fine anyway. It might have been a bit shallower ahead of the works. The town is very nice (at least it seemed like heaven after too many remote anchorages). You can land at the quay; there is a little Şok supermarket right there and also a mini Tansaş around at Küçüdeniz Limani (there are Tansaş signposts in the town). We also saw a garage on the edge of town. The town was alive with young men as it’s a military college/training area and it was the weekend but they were all very well behaved.
(July 2009)
N38°40.61 E026°44.79
Anchored on the north side of the south harbour. Our guide says that the holding is mediocre but we found it to be good. It was blowing quite hard when we were there too. It was windier in the anchorage than it was out to sea.
Kormen Adasi, west coast of Turkey
N38°01.92 E026°52.11
(April 2009)
Just a tiny inlet, nothing there whatsoever. Just about enough room for two boats probably. Holding average. When we arrived the wind was from the north and it was calm and fine. Overnight the wind turned to the south and although it was light the sea rolled in and woke us at an ungodly hour. We left as soon as there was enough light. The pilot book says there’s hot springs here and we could see bubbles coming up from the bottom when we anchored but I didn’t get a chance to try them out.
(April 2009)
Just a tiny inlet, nothing there whatsoever. Just about enough room for two boats probably. Holding average. When we arrived the wind was from the north and it was calm and fine. Overnight the wind turned to the south and although it was light the sea rolled in and woke us at an ungodly hour. We left as soon as there was enough light. The pilot book says there’s hot springs here and we could see bubbles coming up from the bottom when we anchored but I didn’t get a chance to try them out.
Çukurcuk, west coast of Turkey
N37°21.3 E27°12.4
(April 2009)
(The east bay.) It was raining when we anchored here and as we couldn’t see much through the rain it seemed desolate. When it cleared there was a bit more about but most of it was inaccessible – like towns in the distance, just too far away (can you tell I’m getting just that bit desperate for good provisions?). There was a pontoon on the north shore just above the anchorage that was possibly a restaurant pontoon. The holding was good but it was very shallow and we couldn’t get as far in as we would have liked. The wind came from the west overnight and made it very rolly and uncomfortable because of not being able to get far enough in. The bay is wider than it looks in the pilot and the surrounding land is flat so there isn’t necessarily the best protection. The west inlet is buoyed, which probably closes it off.
(April 2009)
(The east bay.) It was raining when we anchored here and as we couldn’t see much through the rain it seemed desolate. When it cleared there was a bit more about but most of it was inaccessible – like towns in the distance, just too far away (can you tell I’m getting just that bit desperate for good provisions?). There was a pontoon on the north shore just above the anchorage that was possibly a restaurant pontoon. The holding was good but it was very shallow and we couldn’t get as far in as we would have liked. The wind came from the west overnight and made it very rolly and uncomfortable because of not being able to get far enough in. The bay is wider than it looks in the pilot and the surrounding land is flat so there isn’t necessarily the best protection. The west inlet is buoyed, which probably closes it off.
Gümüşlük, west coast of Turkey
N37°03.41 E027°13.97
(April 2009)
The ancient mole at the port side of the entrance was easy to see and avoid. We anchored towards the head of the bay. The holding was good. Our edition of the pilot book says you can tie back on the west of the bay but there is a rickety pontoon there that’s full of local boats. The wind blew from the south at night but there wasn’t any motion in there at all. I carted my rubbish around the village looking for a decent bin but couldn’t find one. Then I noticed there were big bins on the beach at the head of the anchorage. Several small shops for expensive and rubbishy provisions in the village! Quite a pleasant walk with Flossie around the path that circles the bay but watch out for the cow pats!!! Apparently you can get a bus from here to Turgutreis/Karatoprak, which I was told was a nice town.
(April 2009)
The ancient mole at the port side of the entrance was easy to see and avoid. We anchored towards the head of the bay. The holding was good. Our edition of the pilot book says you can tie back on the west of the bay but there is a rickety pontoon there that’s full of local boats. The wind blew from the south at night but there wasn’t any motion in there at all. I carted my rubbish around the village looking for a decent bin but couldn’t find one. Then I noticed there were big bins on the beach at the head of the anchorage. Several small shops for expensive and rubbishy provisions in the village! Quite a pleasant walk with Flossie around the path that circles the bay but watch out for the cow pats!!! Apparently you can get a bus from here to Turgutreis/Karatoprak, which I was told was a nice town.
Akyarlar, west coast of Turkey
N36°57.97 E027°17.61
(April 2009)
We anchored just before the harbour. Holding was good. Although the wind was still quite strong and gusting well we were much more comfortable here than the last place. There was virtually no rolling from traffic and the water was flat. The rocks on the starboard side as you go in were easier to see than I imagined as there is a new jetty just before them (something to do with the big new hotel on the hillside?) and there is a pole with a red flag, which looks like it marks the rocks. We didn’t go ashore but it looked like a place that catered for the potentially huge amount of holidaymakers although it seemed deserted when we were there.
(April 2009)
We anchored just before the harbour. Holding was good. Although the wind was still quite strong and gusting well we were much more comfortable here than the last place. There was virtually no rolling from traffic and the water was flat. The rocks on the starboard side as you go in were easier to see than I imagined as there is a new jetty just before them (something to do with the big new hotel on the hillside?) and there is a pole with a red flag, which looks like it marks the rocks. We didn’t go ashore but it looked like a place that catered for the potentially huge amount of holidaymakers although it seemed deserted when we were there.
Kalaboshi (Mesudiye), west coast of Turkey
N36°41.02 E027°34.46
(April 2009)
There is a restaurant jetty (on the port side of the west of the bay) that you can tie back to but we free anchored between it and the reef (the reef is quite visible through the water). We didn’t go ashore but we could see a mini shop there and a big bin on the beach. The wind had been blowing NW for days and in the late evening the gusts off the land were quite strong until about 11 pm. I would say the holding was only average and would feel the need to be pretty well dug in there. It was quite a rolly night, which seemed to be caused mostly by passing traffic. The yachts on the pontoon looked like they were rolling as well.
(April 2009)
There is a restaurant jetty (on the port side of the west of the bay) that you can tie back to but we free anchored between it and the reef (the reef is quite visible through the water). We didn’t go ashore but we could see a mini shop there and a big bin on the beach. The wind had been blowing NW for days and in the late evening the gusts off the land were quite strong until about 11 pm. I would say the holding was only average and would feel the need to be pretty well dug in there. It was quite a rolly night, which seemed to be caused mostly by passing traffic. The yachts on the pontoon looked like they were rolling as well.
Bozburun, west coast of Turkey
N36°41.48 E028°02.41
(April 2009)
Watch out for the rock on the port side as you’re coming in to the anchorage. The proper marker seems to have been run down in the past and isn’t visible (unless you snorkel over it like we did!). It was marked with a couple of plastic containers when we were there. We were in the anchorage to the west of the harbour. Holding and shelter very good. The village has restaurants on the front, small grocery shops, butcher, a good baker, hardware shop, skip type bins to the left of the harbour. Market on Tuesdays – behind the bridge to the left of the village.
Dolmuş to Marmaris (regular service, TL8 each way, journey time about 1hr 10 mins).
(April 2009)
Watch out for the rock on the port side as you’re coming in to the anchorage. The proper marker seems to have been run down in the past and isn’t visible (unless you snorkel over it like we did!). It was marked with a couple of plastic containers when we were there. We were in the anchorage to the west of the harbour. Holding and shelter very good. The village has restaurants on the front, small grocery shops, butcher, a good baker, hardware shop, skip type bins to the left of the harbour. Market on Tuesdays – behind the bridge to the left of the village.
Dolmuş to Marmaris (regular service, TL8 each way, journey time about 1hr 10 mins).
Kizilkuyruk Köyü, Fethiye Körfezi, south coast of Turkey
N36°37.31 E028°52.08
(April 2009)
Just a quiet cove. We spent a peaceful night in the north arm, tied back to a rock. I went in the water for the first time this season to take the line ashore and, thankfully, it wasn’t as cold as I was expecting.
(April 2009)
Just a quiet cove. We spent a peaceful night in the north arm, tied back to a rock. I went in the water for the first time this season to take the line ashore and, thankfully, it wasn’t as cold as I was expecting.
Fethiye, south coast of Turkey
N36°37.34 E029°05.55
(April 2009)
Excellent holding and good shelter. We’ve met people who wintered at anchor here in the past. Landed at ‘Yes’ Marina pontoon and walked into town. The town is great. They have a fabulous, massive market on Tuesdays (next to the river). Carrefore in town and BIM (Turkey’s cheap supermarket) is past the Carrefore, in the street behind the Post Office. The impressive Lycian tombs in the hillside are just 10 min walk from town.
We visited Kayaköy (the stone village deserted as a result of the population exchange and inspiration for the village in Louis de Bernieres’ Birds Without Wings). Catch the dolmuş (labelled ‘Kaya’) from near the big mosque (past Carrefore).
(April 2009)
Excellent holding and good shelter. We’ve met people who wintered at anchor here in the past. Landed at ‘Yes’ Marina pontoon and walked into town. The town is great. They have a fabulous, massive market on Tuesdays (next to the river). Carrefore in town and BIM (Turkey’s cheap supermarket) is past the Carrefore, in the street behind the Post Office. The impressive Lycian tombs in the hillside are just 10 min walk from town.
We visited Kayaköy (the stone village deserted as a result of the population exchange and inspiration for the village in Louis de Bernieres’ Birds Without Wings). Catch the dolmuş (labelled ‘Kaya’) from near the big mosque (past Carrefore).
Üçağiz, Kekova, south coast of Turkey
N36°11.64 E029°50.59
(April and October 2009)
Excellent holding and really good shelter. Last year when we were here we enjoyed the walks ashore and liked the village too. There’s a little shop for provisions and good places to laze around eating and drinking. We landed at the head of the eastern arm of the anchorage and walked to Kale Köy through the Lycian remains to the castle (TL8 entry fee) and down to the picturesque village with the sunken sarcophagus
(April and October 2009)
Excellent holding and really good shelter. Last year when we were here we enjoyed the walks ashore and liked the village too. There’s a little shop for provisions and good places to laze around eating and drinking. We landed at the head of the eastern arm of the anchorage and walked to Kale Köy through the Lycian remains to the castle (TL8 entry fee) and down to the picturesque village with the sunken sarcophagus
Intro
Just in case it’s useful to anyone coming the same way as us this blog has details of our route and what we found at the stops we’ve made on the way. As it’s possible I won’t be able to upload entries straight away I’ve included a month and year, in brackets with each entry, of when we were at each place.
Yacht Sandpiper is a Moody 40 (12 metres) with a 2 metre draught and 4 metre beam.
I’ve only mentioned water availability if I’ve noticed it or if, on the odd occasion, we’ve used a shore supply to fill up (we have a watermaker onboard).
The yachtsman’s guide we refer to for Turkey is Imray’s Turkish Waters and Cyprus Pilot 6th edition. We whizzed up the Turkish coast on our way to the Sea of Marmara because we wanted to get north before the strong head winds really set in. On our return trip we’re intending to take our time and see what we missed on the way up.
I apologise in advance for any errors I might have made with LAT and LONG’s or for anything that’s changed since we were there.
I will also be starting a separate blog (yachtsandpiper2) of our personal experiences and sightseeing on the trip.
Yacht Sandpiper is a Moody 40 (12 metres) with a 2 metre draught and 4 metre beam.
I’ve only mentioned water availability if I’ve noticed it or if, on the odd occasion, we’ve used a shore supply to fill up (we have a watermaker onboard).
The yachtsman’s guide we refer to for Turkey is Imray’s Turkish Waters and Cyprus Pilot 6th edition. We whizzed up the Turkish coast on our way to the Sea of Marmara because we wanted to get north before the strong head winds really set in. On our return trip we’re intending to take our time and see what we missed on the way up.
I apologise in advance for any errors I might have made with LAT and LONG’s or for anything that’s changed since we were there.
I will also be starting a separate blog (yachtsandpiper2) of our personal experiences and sightseeing on the trip.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)