Bosphorus, Turkey

(June 2009)
Refuelling at Kalamiş was a doddle - turn sharp to port immediately after the entrance, the fuel berth runs north south, it was well fendered and they passed us their ropes. (I’ve never been presented with a posy of flowers, picked from the fuel station garden, by an attendant before – how charming is that?!) Transiting the Bosphorus was much crazier than the Dardanelles. Running the gauntlet of the busy ferry crossing from the Golden Horn to Kadıköy was probably the hairiest bit. At one point we had 4.5 knots of tide against us here. We crossed over at Dolmabahce Palace to be on the Europe side where the current is less and even goes with you slightly at times. The ferries going up the European side come ridiculously close when overtaking. It took us 4hrs and 20mins to do the 19.5 miles to Poyraz but we didn’t hurry. As compensation there are plenty of lovely properties to see along the way.

A note on AIS:
The poor quality photo was supplied by the skipper. It was taken on our return transit of the Bosphorus and he says sometimes you can have information overload!

We were advised to maintain a listening watch when transiting the Bosphorus as follows:

South of the Golden Horn - Kadaköy traffic - ch 14
Bridge of Americas (i.e. north bridge) to Golden Horn – Kandilli traffic – ch 13
Poyraz south to Bridge of Americas – Kavacik traffic – ch 12
North of Poyraz – Turkceli – ch 11